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Recommended towns in Andalucia?   You are logged in as Guest
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botafoguense

 

Posts: 16
Joined: Jul. 18 2011
 

Recommended towns in Andalucia? 
Saludos desde Nueva Zelanda,

Thought i'd put this topic in general as it seemd the most appropriate category.

I'm planning to go to Spain next year through a teaching assistant programme run by my university. As we're allowed to give preferred locations, being a flamenco enthusiast i intend to go to Andalucia. From what friends have told me Sevilla, Jerez and Granada are all still really good places to visit to learn more about flamenco. However, i don't intend to enroll in academies or schools but rather just want to be exposed to flamenco music in whatever way outside of the academic institutes (i play a little guitar but mostly dance and won't have money to pay such institutes).

So, perhaps you all could help me to figure a good place to live and experience flamenco outside of the obvious, and possibly more touristic flamenco centres. I'm thinking places like Jaen, Malaga, Algeciras or even Cordoba - all places i havn't heard much about. I have never been to Spain and this trip next you will be a fulfillment of a long held dream.

gracias a todos!
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Jul. 18 2011 0:37:20
 
KMMI77

Posts: 1821
Joined: Jul. 26 2009
From: The land down under

RE: Recommended towns in Andalucia? (in reply to botafoguense) 
One place i recommend checking out is Tolox. It is in the province on Malaga and makes a nice stop on the way to Ronda. Very beautiful and surreal. Not much flamenco but this place really stood out to me. It was like going back in a time machine.

Some of the small villages were so much nicer than the cities. I remember going to a bar in a small town outside Jean called Navas de san Juan. The bar/restaurant was set up like a mini bull ring. The owners were so friendly. When they worked out i was from Australia and played flamenco guitar, they insisted on making me eat everything on the menu for free.

_____________________________
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Jul. 18 2011 3:57:17
 
jsierles

 

Posts: 34
Joined: Apr. 16 2006
 

RE: Recommended towns in Andalucia? (in reply to botafoguense) 
Hey there,

I agree that a lot of smaller towns around the flamenco capitals are great places to see interesting things. Particularly in places like Morón de la Frontera or Lebrija, well-known for flamenco but not heavily touristed. It's not easy to just run into a flamenco party, but if you look up the local "Peñas" and ask when they might have some shows, that's a good start. That said, it can be hard to find anything flamenco-related without hanging around for a while (which I totally recommend in at least one small town).

Sevilla (where i live) is indeed a great place to see a good variety of flamenco without going through the initiation phase. While there is a lot of tourism, that also means there is a concentration of artists and students at all levels. That means there's a LOT of street flamenco life and it's easy to find and meet people. There are lots of places to see cheap or free informal shows that turn into parties, or simply run into people in neighborhoods like Triana which even now is overrun with artists. From there it's easier to find out about interesting things happening in smaller towns. I'd recommend Sevilla over any other town just because the concentration of artists is highest compared to anywhere else in Andalucía.

Lastly I'd recommend touring around Sanlúcar de Barrameda or Puerto de Santa Maria to learn about sherry wines. The more you get involved with sherry, the more interesting things happen!

_____________________________

Joshua Sierles
http://tomaflamenco.com - Online flamenco classes
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Jul. 18 2011 10:38:00
 
dionysius

 

Posts: 13
Joined: Sep. 13 2008
From: Eugene, Oregon

RE: Recommended towns in Andalucia? (in reply to botafoguense) 
I have a soft spot for Granada. Hang around the schools, talk to dancers, and find out when shows are going on around town. Head to bars in the north and you'll find informal playing at night and guitars being passed around. If money is a concern, everything I saw was on the cheaper side, even the shows geared towards tourists.

By contrast, several years prior in Madrid I had a really hard time finding shows that weren't the $$$ tourist flamenco + dinner package, but my spanish was also piss poor at the time and I didn't really know what to look for. A lot of the smaller white villages in Andalucia like Ronda are beautiful, but I didn't find much by way of music when I was there in non-festival season.

@KMMI77, similar experience, I spent time in Prado del Rey outside of Jerez, and spent a good many nights at a local bar . . . Once the bar owner worked out I was from the states, playing flamenco, and obsessed with Lorca, he often paid my tab and eventually convinced me to perform at his bar. Very nice and friendly people!
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Jul. 19 2011 21:34:33
 
avimuno

 

Posts: 598
Joined: Feb. 9 2007
From: Paris, France

RE: Recommended towns in Andalucia? (in reply to botafoguense) 
Hola!

I am just returning from a 2 months trip to Andalucia. I spent most of my time in Sevilla but I have travelled around a bit.

Definitely check Sevilla out... big city (well, big to Andalucian scale) with plenty of bars, restaurants and beautiful sights. Walking around the city is quite simply an experience in itself. Definitely check out Barrio de la Santa Cruz and the Catedral/Giralda area. But my favorite part of the city was La Macarena. Alameda de Hercules is a great place to party with pena Torre Macarena not very far from it, and Calle Castellar (good alternative flamenco scene - you might have to look for them, but persevere, they are worth it) a 10 min walk away. Triana is also nice, although too touristy for my taste, it is the entertainment district of Sevilla now... many clubs and bars, but you can find some decent penas... there's one on Calle Salado.

I also loved Granada... beautiful city! It definitely has a more 'Arabic/North African' flair than Sevilla... it's also cleaner! Definitely check out La Alhambra. There are way too many loud tourists but the architecture and grandeur of the Nasrid palaces are quite simply unique and astonishing.
Walking around the city I have also stumbled upon the old Arabic quarters (I cannot remember the name of the place now)... amazing tea/sheesha bars with really good Arabic/Moroccan food. I hate a really badass couscous with beef tagine there! Prices are very decent, as everywhere in Andalucia.

Cordoba is also very nice, although there is less to see. La Mezquita is the obligatory stop. I was there for the Festival de la Guitarra and got to see Vicente Amigo play an almost 4 hour set so it was absolutely amazing!

When it comes to flamenco, you'll find it everywhere in Andalucia. The bigger cities will tend to have a more touristic flamenco scene which might not be what you're looking for. But bear in mind that you can also find some amazing places for flamenco, all you have to do is talk to people and be ready to walk a bit.

Definitely check out the Pueblos Blancos in between Cordoba and Granada. Moron de la frontera also has a great flamenco scene, although I haven't been there. And the little towns surrounding the bigger cities will have some good flamenco as the gypsies have moved there over the years... getting access to those juergas require knowing people however... but here again, don't be shy... make friends and they'll take you there.

I have found people to be very friendly and welcoming in Andalucia so keep an open mind and be ready to experience it!

All the best.

Saludos,


Avi
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Jul. 20 2011 6:30:16
 
botafoguense

 

Posts: 16
Joined: Jul. 18 2011
 

RE: Recommended towns in Andalucia? (in reply to botafoguense) 
Thanks everyone for your tips, took me a while to get to reply.

I'll be staying in Spain for at least 6 months, but i much prefer to spend quality time in the places i visit so my plan is at least a year. I think if there is a flamenco community in the area i'm living I can try to get involved.

Sevilla sounds really cool, although i'm still a little more attracted to the smaller cities. I've heard quite a bit about Granada, and told there are a lot of young people, something which might accommodate me even more.

Can anyone give me info on the Jaen area?

gracias otra vez!
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Jul. 24 2011 11:49:00
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