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RE: Is it better to glue the bridge ... (in reply to Joan Maher)
Better in what sense?
IMHO, its safer to glue the bridge before polishing because you are 100% sure there will be no rests of shellack, lacquer or whatever that could make the glue joint weaker.
But its a LOT easyer to French Polish without the darn bridge and for most of us the final result looks a lot better if the guitar was polished without a bridge. If you carefully scrape and sand all finish away and leave a flat surface for the bridge, there´s no problem in it and thats what I do myself.
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Joined: Jun. 14 2014
From: Encinitas, CA USA
RE: Is it better to glue the bridge ... (in reply to Joan Maher)
Why not put a piece of masking tape that is slightly smaller than the bridge on the top, polish it then glue the bridge.
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Ah well, there was a fantastic passion there, in my case anyway. I discovered flamenco very early on. It grips you in a way that you can't get away - Paco Pena
RE: Is it better to glue the bridge ... (in reply to Joan Maher)
I use lacquer but it's still difficult to polish the finish around the bridge. Like Tom, I like to do a little "fine tuning" before applying the finish so I always glue the bridge before finishing. Sometimes the guitar sits around for weeks with strings on and no finish while I try to get the voice I want.
RE: Is it better to glue the bridge ... (in reply to Joan Maher)
It is relatively easy to make a perfectly mated surface on the top and under the bridge before there is any varnish on the top. This perfection is quite difficult with the lack of freedom when you are working within the "bald patch" of the top. If you can keep those two surfaces exactly the same curve and flatness, contaminant-free and freshly worked right up until you glue then go ahead and varnish first. This is one of the most important joints on the guitar so I personally like to glue it first and then accept the difficulties and drawbacks of varnishing around the bridge. Having said that, those who weighed in earlier must be achieving good joints on their bridges or they wouldn't be doing it that way.
RE: Is it better to glue the bridge ... (in reply to Stephen Eden)
quote:
ORIGINAL: SEden
I polish before gluing the bridge on too. It is a lot easier and you get a better finish around the bridge area.
The only reason to polish after gluing the bridge on is if you want to hear the guitar first and perhaps make adjustments like Tom does.
Actually I plan out the guitar's tone by sanding it with the bridge on and then remove it for finishing. If there is any fine tuning needed, after the re-installation of the bridge, then I go through the sound hole to make adjustments.
The finish is kept off the bridge area with a strip of tape just inside the bridge line. I keep it fairly level and leave it so that if the bridge ever comes off it will not take any wood outside the bridge line. This works most of the time, if the bridge ever comes off.
I would like to add that German Vasquez Rubio has agreed to finish my guitars so he would finish them with the bridge already installed.
RE: Is it better to glue the bridge ... (in reply to Tom Blackshear)
quote:
I would like to add that German Vasquez Rubio has agreed to finish my guitars so he would finish them with the bridge already installed.
Yeah, thats standard in Spain. For a couple of years I had Antonio Ariza hijo finish my guitars (see el guitarrero) He was a LOT better than I am and especially I was stunned by how he could finish the area around the bridge (and fingerboard) with absolutely no traces or issues of any kind.
RE: Is it better to glue the bridge ... (in reply to Joan Maher)
I just recently saw a top finished with shellac by Antonio Ariza (on behalf of a Granada maker) and he did a firt class job indeed. I don't know if he hand rub the shellac or he uses the spray gun. Anyway I always found the guitars made in Granada very well varnished. Once I used to have a Manuel Cacères and I found the shellac finish in my case wasn't good at all (very thin, not particularly flat and almost missing in the area close to the bridge) . I was told the majority of the makers of Madrid go to the same guy for the varnishing (I wan't mention the name here) and this is what you get from the everybody when you go for the shellac.
RE: Is it better to glue the bridge ... (in reply to Joan Maher)
quote:
ORIGINAL: Joan Maher
Sorry if this is a repeated theme but I am just pondering - Is it better to do it this way or glue the bridge on first then french polish around it?
I have done both ways previously but would like to know the thoughts of the forum on this one.
Feliz Navidad/ Happy Xmas to all.
JM
If the bridge is a proper fit why even glue, really does not have to be glued at all, if and when it becomes time to replace it your in trouble when glued.
RE: Is it better to glue the bridge ... (in reply to pundi64)
quote:
ORIGINAL: pundi64
If the bridge is a proper fit why even glue, really does not have to be glued at all, if and when it becomes time to replace it your in trouble when glued.
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RE: Is it better to glue the bridge ... (in reply to pundi64)
quote:
f the bridge is a proper fit why even glue, really does not have to be glued at all, if and when it becomes time to replace it your in trouble when glued.
Are you sure you're not confusing the saddle bone that fits into the bridge's "saddle" with the bridge itself?
Bill
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Joined: Jan. 29 2012
From: Seattle, Washington, USA
RE: Is it better to glue the bridge ... (in reply to Joan Maher)
I glue the bridge on first. I find that it is fairly efficient to french polish around and up to the bridge--and the same problem exists alongside the fingerboard--using a special muñeca that I make by taking a piece of wood about 2 cm x 10 cm x 2 mm and wrapping it with a few layers of cheesecloth and securing the cloth with a safety pin (baby diaper pin), which acts as a handle. The long edge fits right up against the edges of the bridge or fingerboard.
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RE: Is it better to glue the bridge ... (in reply to Joan Maher)
Here- I covered this for someone a few months ago:
One of my friends asked how I French polish the bridge and top in the instance that I glue the bridge on before I apply finish to the top. Here's a bit on how I accomplish the task. It's not hard, but takes a couple of techniques and a few abrasives. I use Buflex and Assilex woven abrasives, and 600 to 1000 git wet /dry paper. I have a few hard expanded urethane blocks, which I cut into different sizes as needed. To start I French polish the top normally and to get in around the bridge I fold a hard corner or edge in the French polish fob. The fob, bag of cheese cloth covered in a fine muslin wrapping is the shellac applicator. I cut in right next to the bridge and through practice and experience you can figure out how to blend the strokes together with the surrounding areas. I try to wait until I have the whole top "bodied up" with shellac and then I make a small swatch of folded cloth and lay on thin films of shellac on the bridge. This can also be done ahead of gluing on the bridge after is is made. I like to lay on the first few coats and put the bridge aside for a day or two, then pore fill it with pumice, or even *gasp* CA glue. Once the bridge and the top are nearing the end of the bodying I give them a fast swipe or three with Assilex woven abrasive. Assilex is made for fine auto body work on final details, it is available online through Eagle Abrasives in the USA via Amazon. The Asslex Sky Blue color is equal to about 600 grit and does not leave deep scratch marks, it's engineered to cut a flat plane and not follow micro contours of surface. It makes **** really flat and smooth. Buflex is a related auto body product but not as aggressive and Assilex and serves as a finishing up buffer and can stand in for the "spiriting off " process done at the end of a French polish job. Or you can use Buflex and spirit off ...it's an art form. I get the edge of the hard urethane block right down on the side of the bridge and fair it out around the bridge, the block is soft enough not to scratch the bridge and flat enough to cut down any uneven shellac layers feathered out around the bridge. It is a process of flattening and then reglazing with shellac until you are happy with how it looks. I recommend doing this under Fluorescent light and then looking at the work under incandescent light. The reason is because fluorescent light is the most unforgiving light, or perhaps halogen also, for revealing the uneven contours of a finish film. It the work looks acceptable under fluorescent light it will be glorious under sunlight or incandescent illumination. And we want glorious looking work.
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