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Adam

Posts: 1155
Joined: Dec. 6 2006
From: Philadelphia

Flamenco in Granada 

Hola! So I just arrived today in Granada and now that I'm here, I think it's about time to ask....where's the place to see me some good ol' down-and-dirty flamenco? I see signs all over for restaurants doing flamenco with dinner, and my program is even doing flamenco + tapas on Sunday night, but it all seems like it's probably very touristy, I'm not sure if that's quite authentic (but then again, I just read Totton's "Song of the Outcasts" and EVERYTHING is too touristy for him, so maybe my mind's clouded ). My plan was kinda just to go up to the Sacromonte at night wandering around looking for small peñas, haha but maybe that's not the best idea. Kate, Simon, etc...Granadinos...where to find flamenco? How? Any help would be great :)

Also, a quick question on studying guitar...I've been looking around for someone to learn from, and all I've found so far (well, I haven't looked THAT extensively ) is one of the luthiers I visited today (Plaza de Realejo n. 15) offers group lessons twice a week at a very decent price of 60 euros a month (also private lessons but only once a week and 120 euros a month). I'm not too sure about the idea of group lessons but they're max. 5 people and apparently the teacher goes around to each person individually while the others practice. So for those of you with more experience than I in finding guitar teachers - what should I do here? Go with the group, or is it very worth my while to go with the private (less often, more expensive, but more personal attention), or even just to look elsewhere for, say, someone who teaches on his own and not through a store? Confused about this all...thanks!
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date May 29 2007 17:28:11
 
Escribano

Posts: 6305
Joined: Jul. 6 2003
From: England, living in Italy

RE: Flamenco in Granada (in reply to Adam

Access to flamenco in Granada is not easy without knowing someone in the know. Tickets often sell out before the posters go up.

For classes, go see Emilio Maya at his new flamenco school, no question:

No. 24, Calle San Jose near San Miguel Bajo. No. 32 bus from Plaza Nueva. He is a great guitarist, cool guy and a patient teacher. If you speak Spanish call 958 225 705 or 658 134 164. Kate can also help get you together.

See

He charges 60 Euros for 8 one-hour lessons and should be able to sort you out.

As for seeing some decent flamenco, he is performing at the same address this Friday night 9:00pm (1.5 hours for 18 Euros). I'll be filming it, so I might see you there and go for a beer afterwards.

Good luck and enjoy the marvellous weather this time of year.

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  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date May 29 2007 17:43:25
 
Adam

Posts: 1155
Joined: Dec. 6 2006
From: Philadelphia

RE: Flamenco in Granada (in reply to Adam

Ooh, nice vid (and guitar!). I just looked at the map - Emilio's studio (on San Jose Bajo, right?) is only a few blocks from the home I'm staying at. Not bad! And 60 euros for 8 lessons is actually amazing (an hour lesson in the states can easily be $50 USD). I'll try to get that set up....

so is the best way to see flamenco around here to pay for organized shows? is it worthwhile to head to the sacromonte or the caves or whatnot and look for a bunch of gitanos fiddling around? oh, that reminds me...I can't count the number of people (I think gypsies) who have harassed me today for 5 euros after blessing me with good luck with a leaf or the like. I hope if I do go to the Sacromonte for flamenco it won't all be like that?

BTW, I'd love to see Emilio's show Friday - tickets at the door or should I get them in advance somehow?
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date May 29 2007 18:15:03
 
Escribano

Posts: 6305
Joined: Jul. 6 2003
From: England, living in Italy

RE: Flamenco in Granada (in reply to Adam

You got lucky. Emilio is world-class and a really nice guy with bags of teaching experience. His studio is on the corner of Calle San Jose and Bocanegra. Looks like a little shop.

quote:

I can't count the number of people (I think gypsies) who have harassed me today for 5 euros after blessing me with good luck with a leaf or the like

Pay them (bills only please) and they bless you, refuse and they will curse you. I just say "No, gracia'" in my best Andaluz and keep moving.

I can't comment on wandering around the Sacromonte but I doubt you will trip over much flamenco. Kate might chip in here but Emilio should know what's going on, if anything.

I suspect you can pay at the door and that is good value to see him up real close in a small venue. See you there.

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  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date May 29 2007 18:25:42
 
Adam

Posts: 1155
Joined: Dec. 6 2006
From: Philadelphia

RE: Flamenco in Granada (in reply to Adam

Ah, that's a shame - I was looking at San Jose Baja. I got confused because that's also near a San Miguel Bajo (actually, Calle San Miguel Baja). So it's not nearly as close as I'd thought but hey, I can manage

quote:

Pay them (bills only please) and they bless you, refuse and they will curse you. I just say "No, gracia'" in my best Andaluz and keep moving.


Aw, now I know. I wonder if all those curses are too late to reverse now.....

Hopefully I can make it out Friday. If I do, see you there.
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date May 29 2007 18:34:29
 
JDiaz

 

Posts: 244
Joined: Apr. 20 2007
 

RE: Flamenco in Granada (in reply to Adam

ya definately go to the sacramonte gypsy caves and check them out! how long you stayin in Granada?
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date May 30 2007 0:33:27
 
Adam

Posts: 1155
Joined: Dec. 6 2006
From: Philadelphia

RE: Flamenco in Granada (in reply to Adam

thanks, i guess i will when i get a chance! what's the deal with the caves - how do i get there, how often do they do flamenco (is it spontaneous/scheduled, often/rare)? i'm here for only a month (now through very tail end of june) so i want to make the best of it :)

also, after my first night here - visiting the alhambra at midnight with a few friends and then going dancing/drinking at a little club - granada is absolutely amazing :) what a city!
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date May 30 2007 1:21:11
 
JDiaz

 

Posts: 244
Joined: Apr. 20 2007
 

RE: Flamenco in Granada (in reply to Adam

I don't know how often they do flamenco.. i went there in july of 05' and i got tickets from the hostal i was stayin at. you'll figure it out. ya granada is pretty cool! enjoy it=)
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date May 30 2007 2:03:43
 
Kate

Posts: 1827
Joined: Jul. 8 2003
From: Living in Granada, Andalucía

RE: Flamenco in Granada (in reply to Adam

quote:

ORIGINAL: ramparts

thanks, i guess i will when i get a chance! what's the deal with the caves - how do i get there, how often do they do flamenco (is it spontaneous/scheduled, often/rare)? i'm here for only a month (now through very tail end of june) so i want to make the best of it :)


There is flamenco every night in the Tablaos ( Caves) of the Sacromonte, but it may not be what you really want as it is very touristy. If you go up there you will see the tour buses and hundreds of tourists being sheperded around. However there are bars where you can catch the local flamencos just hanging out, try the Bulería.

I've sent you a private email as Emilio is playing at Libreria tomorrow night ( Thursday) and at his school Friday and at the Peña on Saturday. Also check out Eshavira on Sunday nights for flamenco and The Upsetter on Monday when I think El Niño de las Almendras is singing. Looks like you have a busy week ahead and if you are here for a month then you'll feel like a local by the end of it :)

Kate

_____________________________

Emilio Maya Temple
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000CA6OBC
http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/emiliomaya
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date May 30 2007 12:16:55
 
Kate

Posts: 1827
Joined: Jul. 8 2003
From: Living in Granada, Andalucía

RE: Flamenco in Granada (in reply to Adam

Also it's Corpus in Granada, I think it starts Thursday or it may be at the weekend. The Feria is a must see, all of Granada moves out there for the whole week, dresses up, drinks sherry, eats jamon, parades round and dances.

Kate

_____________________________

Emilio Maya Temple
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000CA6OBC
http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/emiliomaya
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date May 30 2007 13:06:47
 
Kate

Posts: 1827
Joined: Jul. 8 2003
From: Living in Granada, Andalucía

RE: Flamenco in Granada (in reply to Kate

[/quote]

There is flamenco every night in the Tablaos ( Caves) of the Sacromonte, but it may not be what you really want as it is very touristy.

Kate
[/quote]

Actually I should qualify that statement. The flamenco you will see in the Tablaos is authentic, many great performers work in the caves. You could see Ivan Vargas, Juan Andrés Maya or even young Alba at the Maya Tablao. Javier Serrano dances in "Los Tarantos" Ana Calí often dances at the tablaos when not touring with Belen Maya and Mayte Martín. Last year the amazing singer El Torta was working at Venta del Gallo. It is the tourist element that makes it touristy and not the artists.

Kate

_____________________________

Emilio Maya Temple
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000CA6OBC
http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/emiliomaya
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date May 30 2007 14:15:12
 
paco picado

 

Posts: 64
Joined: May 25 2007
 

RE: Flamenco in Granada (in reply to Kate

Kate, while I was in Almunecar, I met a few traveller types, that had learnt a bit of Flamenco, in the caves near Granada, cant remember the name of the district. At one time it was the place to go, if u wanted to learn flamenco from the Gitanos. Philip John Lee spent some time there in the early 70's. But I have heard it is now plagued by drugs, crime, and if u are lucky enough to find an un occupied cave, if u leave to do some shopping all your **** will be stolen, or your cave re occupied, by some smacked out northern European, I was advised not to go, is this right.
Cheers
Paco
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date May 30 2007 18:40:45
 
Kate

Posts: 1827
Joined: Jul. 8 2003
From: Living in Granada, Andalucía

RE: Flamenco in Granada (in reply to paco picado

Things are changing pretty fast up there, the old caves are still occupied by hippies, druggies etc mostly Northern Europeans but they are being moved out and they want to make the area more accessible which sadly will probably mean concrete paths and landscaping. When I first came I knew a young Gitano couple who lived up there but they got rehoused as soon as possible to Almanjayar. I wouldn't go up to those caves to hear flamenco. It's all tin whistles, Marley and Dylan covers and banging drums. Nothing to be scared of but probably best avoided. The lower Sacromonte is pretty lively with legitimate bars and I am quite happy going up there, the flamencos all work at the tablaos so they all hang out there too. I've had some great nights out in the Sacromonte.

Kate

_____________________________

Emilio Maya Temple
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000CA6OBC
http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/emiliomaya
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date May 31 2007 0:04:48
 
Paleto

Posts: 243
Joined: Jul. 29 2003
From: San Diego, CA

RE: Flamenco in Granada (in reply to Adam

Ramparts,

Great!

It's so cool to have people over there participating, I am looking forward to hearing about your experience.

A friend of mine from San Diego is over there right now, his name is Ed Fishwick. When Ed was there a year or two ago, he also took lessons with Emilio and had nothing but the best to say about learning with Emilio.

If you find Emilio, I am sure he'll know that Ed is around, find Ed, and you'll find someone fairly well connected with the flamenco community there. Ed is a genuinely great guy and will, I am sure, be happy to get you introduced and connected.

I don't know exactly where he is, but ask around and say you would like to find him - I am sure the flamencos will know.

He's a good guy and will get you oriented well.

Let us know how you are and also what you're learning.

Have a great time,

-Anthony
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date May 31 2007 3:46:07
 
Kate

Posts: 1827
Joined: Jul. 8 2003
From: Living in Granada, Andalucía

RE: Flamenco in Granada (in reply to Paleto

Eduardo arrived last night and is staying with at the house of the singer El Parrón. Hoping to meet up later at Emilio's gig tonight, if not sure he will be at the Peña on saturday night or Eshavira on Sunday. Looks like Emilio will be busy with forum members, have had about five reuqests recently to get in touch with him and the flamenco scene here.

Kate

_____________________________

Emilio Maya Temple
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000CA6OBC
http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/emiliomaya
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date May 31 2007 12:43:29
 
Escribano

Posts: 6305
Joined: Jul. 6 2003
From: England, living in Italy

RE: Flamenco in Granada (in reply to Kate

quote:

Looks like Emilio will be busy with forum members, have had about five reuqests recently to get in touch with him and the flamenco scene here.


Great news! Emilio deserves the business as he breaks out on his own and students get a genuine flamenco teacher of consumate skill at a good price. This is the beauty of such a forum. We all win.

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  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date May 31 2007 13:05:46
 
Adam

Posts: 1155
Joined: Dec. 6 2006
From: Philadelphia

RE: Flamenco in Granada (in reply to Adam

Thanks for all the tips! I'll try to find this "Ed" then, too :)

I ran into Emilio Maya yesterday at a bar in Sacromonte (Simon, thanks for posting the video so I recognized him!), and we should be starting lessons soon...once I know my class schedule. I'll be at the Libreria tonight with a friend, hope to see some of you there!

Kate, I was in Sacromonte yesterday and saw a bunch of little bars/clubs called "Cueva de so and so", around the Bar la Bulerias area. Are these the actual caves or is that just the name that the owners give for the restaurants?
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date May 31 2007 13:44:33
 
Kate

Posts: 1827
Joined: Jul. 8 2003
From: Living in Granada, Andalucía

RE: Flamenco in Granada (in reply to Adam

The show starts at 10 pm, see you there. I emailed Ed to let him know as well. And yes the caves are just that, caves dug out from the hillside. For example La Cueva del Curro, belongs to EL Curro del Albaicín. Some are also bars and restaurants and some are flamenco tablaos. Some are people's homes and some are rented to tourists. Even the ones that look like proper houses are caves with a house front built on. Some date back to the 13th century and before.

If you saw a large building quite high up with a big glass window that is the Centro de Estudios Gitanos or also known as the Chumbera. They have flamenco artists performing most saturday nights. The big window is the back of the stage so the audience can see the Alhambra.

saludos

Kate

_____________________________

Emilio Maya Temple
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000CA6OBC
http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/emiliomaya
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date May 31 2007 14:26:37
 
Adam

Posts: 1155
Joined: Dec. 6 2006
From: Philadelphia

RE: Flamenco in Granada (in reply to Adam

Mmm...I like Granada! Flamenco-wise, I saw Emilio and met Kate Thursday night at the Liberia, very good show (with Kate´s permission I´ll YouTube it when I get a chance). I brought a few friends, they loved it (I think it was the first flamenco experience for all). Last night my program took us to the Chumberra, Alfredo (a very good cantaor) was singing with a few others, including a very impressive guitarrist. Tonight I´ll try to make it to the Eshavira but it´ll end late and classes start tomorrow (9 AM!!) so, well, we´ll see :) First lesson with Emilio is tomorrow.....viva Granada!
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Jun. 3 2007 18:49:02
 
Kate

Posts: 1827
Joined: Jul. 8 2003
From: Living in Granada, Andalucía

RE: Flamenco in Granada (in reply to Adam

Hi Adam, Glad you enjoyed Emilio's gig, it was the first time I had seen him play with that line up ( just cajón and violin) and despite me not liking violin or even worse flute in flamenco I was really won over. You best ask Emilio permission to put any footage up at youtube when you see him tomorrow.

We had a late night at the Peña last night, Emilio was playing this time for two dancers and two singers though he did a solo piece, the zapateado from his album Temple again with the violin. Usually the Peña socios don't go overboard when the flamenco is not 'puro' but they all but got a standing ovation for this new version.

I'm interested to know who the guitarist was accompanying Alfredo, who as you say is a simply wonderful singer.

I hoped to meet up with Ed as well last night but he was a no show. He'll probably be at the Eshavira tonight but I'm thinking of giving it a miss after spending all day celebrating a friend's son's first communion. Harold is in the studio recording our friend flamenco guitarist and teacher Alberto and depending on what time they finish they may decide to go in which case I'll be there but right now want to lie down and sleep off the beer :)

Enjoy your class tomorrow and if you are free I think El Niño de las Almendras will be perforiming tomorrow night at the Upsetter.

Saludos
Kate

_____________________________

Emilio Maya Temple
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000CA6OBC
http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/emiliomaya
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Jun. 3 2007 20:20:11
 
Adam

Posts: 1155
Joined: Dec. 6 2006
From: Philadelphia

RE: Flamenco in Granada (in reply to Adam

Well, I'll be missing the Eshavira as well tonight (need my sleep for the 9 AM class! at least for the first day), but perhaps I can make my way over to Upsetter (depending on whether or not my friends drag me around town late for my birthday, haha). Either way, thanks so much for the little updates-my time here is limited so I'm so glad I can stay up-to-date on the flamenco! It's so hard to find back home...

I think the guitarist's name (with Alfredo) was Rafael, by the way, but I could be wrong...I forget. Maybe you know who I'm talking about :) Looked and sounded a lot like Vicente...hehe
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Jun. 3 2007 22:09:56
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