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Maestros, how much wiggle room do you leave for 12th fret action when deciding how much to taper your fretboard?
With a straightedge, I’ll have 2.8mm at the 12th, and an 8mm saddle height ( 6 + 2mm). That’s with a 6mm fretboard tapered to 5mm, and 1mm fret height. I’m guessing the clearance at the 12th will increase when the bridge pulls up and the frets are leveled. And based on some forum searching, adding relief isn’t really necessary for a flamemco.
When everything is settled, I like a low action (2.8mm) and might like to lower the saddle a bit into the 7-8mm range. thanks!
I think those numbers sound very reasonable. If everything is carefully measured and that's what you're coming up with I would go ahead and glue the fingerboard. Any wiggle room that you need will come out of the saddle. Just remember to factor in ~1mm of string height over the first fret.
Your numbers sound very good to me, too. But my experience has been that this never comes out the way I planned it on paper. I had to reach my current parameters (neck angle, fingerboard thickness, doming--with bridge height held constant at 1/4") by trial and error. I will be curious to learn how it turns out for you, and I wish you luck.
Oh right, I didn’t factor in any string clearance over the first fret. I thought it would be pretty negligible though.
hoping I don’t have to raise the saddle any higher than 8mm. If I were to get some bad buzzing I could add some relief in the frets ?
When I set the neck angle I took as much care as I could. I checked my Solera with a straight edge and feeler Gauges for flatness right before glueing the back and made adjustments. And I took the sides of my mold off of the Solera because I noticed the neck wanted to pull up with the clamp off at the nut. I’m not sure if that helped or not. Oh yeah , and I forgot to take the sound hole clamp off before I glued the back. So I had to dig out the bolt from the underside of the Solera. Sounds like a rookie mistake
Still have the fretboard to get right and and the string tension factor of course.
I raised the neck 2.5mm at the nut. For the dome I went with 1.5mm.. I just re measured with a straight edge and got 2.4mm clearance at the 12th. And I added about a mm to the nut shim.
So I guess I’m thinking of tapering about a mm to allow a little more room to lower the saddle and give a little clearance. That sound right?
I taper the board, dome the top and add neck lift to get the action height without needing a too tall bridge or saddle. This also avoids the "folded" look of a guitar where the top is more or less flat with a constant depth board and a "cranked" neck",
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