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I have used Titebond II extended for my Purfling stripes (Rope). When I put the stripes thru the Drumsander the Paper clogs extensively. I never hat this problem with PU or Titebond I. So I can use the paper for maybe one or two stripes before it is totally damaged. I use the “open” type of paper, 80 grit. Do you have this too?
RE: Clogging Sandpaper Drumsander (in reply to Vince)
In general, drumsanders 'clog' when what they sand is getting to hot. You can also completely clog the sandpaper when sanding rosewoods, because the oil gets hot and burns the dust to the sandpaper and then its useless afterwards. Try running it slower with less pressure. That way it will sand cooler. And try to keep as much glue away from the drumsander as possible. Not easy I know, but everything that can be scraped is worth scraping.
RE: Clogging Sandpaper Drumsander (in reply to Vince)
Indeed. Perhaps the Titebond II extended becomes a little more jelly like with lower heat cause it to clog the paper more easily. I haven't had any trouble like this with Titebond PU glue and I always use the sander for this job.
On top of Anders advice on feed speed and lessening the cut. Are you putting them through at an angle? This also helps prevent heat build up?
My Paper usually goes blunt before it clogs and I make a lot of IRW guitars. I think the current paper has made 10 guitars or more already.
RE: Clogging Sandpaper Drumsander (in reply to Vince)
Thank you for advice. I always run my pieces diagonally thru the sander to use the whole paper surface. Seden: I wonder how you manage that with PU Glue. I think your way to do the purfling (Herringbone and Rope) is quit the same I do. How do you glue the veneers to the stack without becoming trouble with the open Time. Do you glue only 2 or 3 layers and clamp, or do you glue the complete Stack? When doing this in steps you have to do a lot of cleanup between the steps, because the PU- Foam is all over the sides!
RE: Clogging Sandpaper Drumsander (in reply to Vince)
I assumed you would run them diagonally. It's best to leave no stone unturned though.
I wonder that myself sometimes, how did I do that! I have glued up a whole stack before but you have to be very organised, having something to stack the veneers against to keep them in line. I also try and keep pressure on the veneers that have already been glued to stop the foam deforming the stack. I think I can do the whole process in 5 - minutes and glue about 70 veneers in place.
I have changed the way I do it to take a few more gluing rounds but it is far less stressful.
I have found that gluing up full lengths of veneers say 55mm wide, 10 at a time or how ever many I need to create a repeating pattern close to 10 as not to be a struggle. You don't need to use loads of glue so I don't struggle with clean up. I usually just bandsaw off the excess and give a light plane until I hit veneer on one side. Once I've got enough of those to make a big enough stack I cut them into 400mm lengths, about the right size for a rosette. I then glue them against something to keep the alignment correct and the do the clean up work. I expect to end up with a bout 5mm loss of veneer then go from there to get the angle right.
Sorry if that's jibberish I am not great at explaining my self in words.
RE: Clogging Sandpaper Drumsander (in reply to Vince)
I keep some cheap baby powder on hand and sprinkle/wipe in on before it goes through, really helps with resinous timber. I also soak the abrasive overnight and water blast it. The best parts of the used cloth are good for sanding boards glued on in strips.
RE: Clogging Sandpaper Drumsander (in reply to Vince)
Good suggestions all around, also I presume you're already familiar those rubbery sanding-belt-cleaning sticks? They can be helpful if used regularly, but usually won't get off the worst of the gunk when it's really caked on.
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Joined: Jan. 29 2012
From: Seattle, Washington, USA
RE: Clogging Sandpaper Drumsander (in reply to Vince)
I use Original Titebond for most things and don't get clogging. But I have found that white glue (Elmer's), which dries clear and is therefore nice for rosettes, does cause clogging.
I tried Titebond II once and found that the joints failed sometimes, so I stopped using it immediately.
RE: Clogging Sandpaper Drumsander (in reply to HemeolaMan)
Some really good tips here, this group really knows their stuff. Another trick is to use food grade cooking spray, a light mist will help with some of the clogging. I have been around plenty of woodworking shops, and even the smallest mom and pop operations have a wide belt sander, like the Timesaver model. Some even have multiple sanding heads, and can take you from 50 grit to 100 in a single pass. Make friends with your local cabinetmaker, rent a few hours on their rig and bust out a years supply of material before lunchtime.
RE: Clogging Sandpaper Drumsander (in reply to Vince)
Titbond II is defenetly the problem. I do right now the same again for a other build with fish glue and the stripes sand like bare wood with no glogging at all!
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