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RE: Luthiers Share Tool Ideas (in reply to estebanana)
I use this jig for curving the back braces. A straight brace is pressed ( using an cam clamp) in the middle until it is flush with the board, then the brace routed flush with the table router. Very quick and easy, accurate to. Every radius can be set quickly.
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I use this jig for curving the back braces. A straight brace is pressed ( using an cam clamp) in the middle until it is flush with the board, then the brace routed flush with the table router. Very quick and easy, accurate to. Every radius can be set quickly.
Very clever! I think I'll make one and use it on the table saw. Thank you.
RE: Luthiers Share Tool Ideas (in reply to estebanana)
This is a handy little "tool" for cutting binding/purfling channels. Just a stick of wood that has its edges rounded over on one side. I use a laminate trimmer with a bearing set and first cut to the depth of the binding (without side purfling) over the tail block on both sides. Then I tape on this tail stripe protector and rout all around to the full depth of the binding+side purf. It bumps the router out and leaves just small bits of wood to take off by hand. Also works for cutting purflings on the back if they will be mitered into the back strip.
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Posts: 1730
Joined: Jan. 29 2012
From: Seattle, Washington, USA
RE: Luthiers Share Tool Ideas (in reply to Andy Culpepper)
That's a good idea, Andy. I used to do a similar thing at the neck--where I clamped a stick in the middle so I wouldn't route into the neck. I'm always afraid I will forget not to route the full depth at the tail (once I did forget and had to put in a new endgraft).
Having mispositioned holes offcentre and split wood and (insert general idiocy here) ... I made this. At least I used some of the fingerboard waste. Now maybe something similar to cut the pegs to length. The hole's are 3-4mm above the face plate.
[General Idiocy section: I also made a very good bridge hole jig from aluminium and rosewood following an earlier post here. I eventually found it useful to be able to put the holes in before shaping the bridge. Eventually, because I tried the jig out on a piece of scrap rosewood not bothering to centre it against anything as I was only looking for depth clearance. That bit of rosewood was, of course, the bridge I had shaped and needed to put the 12 holes in.... ]
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RE: Luthiers Share Tool Ideas (in reply to estebanana)
Nice El Burdo. I made something similar out of a block of maple.
Here's a mod I made to the ubiquitous little green Kunz plane. I ground the corners of the sole over so that the distance from the edge of the blade to the edge of the sole is very small. It works great for shaving braces to a pointed shape and it doesn't mar the top wood if you don't press down hard.
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RE: Luthiers Share Tool Ideas (in reply to estebanana)
I did the same thing for the same reason. It works pretty well. I just put it in the vise and filed the corners to a 45 and rounded them. It takes the tops off square braces with uniform angle on both sides.
You can also use a piece of thin clear plastic as a mask next to the brace and the plane will ride on that instead of the wood which leaves the wood untouched. If you think it's important inside the guitar.
RE: Luthiers Share Tool Ideas (in reply to estebanana)
Here's one I've been using for years, it's is a concept you can invent and reinvent for different purposes.
It's a bench hook, it has a stop underneath to keep the fixture from sliding and a smaller stop on top to keep the the work in place while you cut it, sand it, plane etc.
RE: Luthiers Share Tool Ideas (in reply to estebanana)
Nice. Deteresa don't you do veneer thinning with that plane? I still can't get things sharp enough so I used a variation of Bananasan's benchhook above. It's been the best measure, as both the veneer and the boundary are the same thickness. Scraped rather than planed as the veneer rocks in the slot and becomes too thin at the ends, so I tape it at one end! I tried a slot too. This seems a little bit easier, though none of it is really satisfactory.
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RE: Luthiers Share Tool Ideas (in reply to El Burdo)
quote:
Deteresa don't you do veneer thinning with that plane? I still can't get things sharp enough so I used a variation of Bananasan's benchhook above. It's been the best measure, as both the veneer and the boundary are the same thickness. Scraped rather than planed as the veneer rocks in the slot and becomes too thin at the ends, so I tape it at one end! I tried a slot too. This seems a little bit easier, though none of it is really satisfactory.
Yes I use the same plane and I also use a scraper when the strips get closer to thickness. A light bulb went off for me when Gimar Yestra's posted his jig for for thinning rosette strips so I basically copied it. Also usable for bindings. http://andyculpepperguitars.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/img_2891.jpg
Bench hooks are great too, I have a shooting board like that and a cutting board with saw slots for chopping braces, etc.
RE: Luthiers Share Tool Ideas (in reply to Andy Culpepper)
Tools? Excellent but...still waiting, still dreaming...
Also, can you have a look at my internals on the other thread Bananasan? - I can't believe with all this expertise only one builder has volunteered any idea and I'm sure you must have something, maybe even a lot to say about it .
RE: Luthiers Share Tool Ideas (in reply to estebanana)
Ok, I've been bearing down on a guitar that needs to get finished, I'll show that scraper fixture. soon, lots of poeple have a veneer scraper maybe someone else can post one too?
RE: Luthiers Share Tool Ideas (in reply to estebanana)
You don't have to put a burr on the plane iron. Just sharpen as you would a plane iron. The flat side of the blade engages the veneer, flat side away from you.
There are lots of variations on how to construct this, do a google search and see other ideas. The one thing here on mine is that the nut is fixed and you don't have to use two hands to manage the tightening of the blade. One hand holds it in place while you tighten with the allen wrench.
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