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I brush a small amount of water into the slots to lubricate them, then do a level check after they are all in and tap down any that didn’t fully seat. Once I’m satisfied they are as level as possible, I clamp them firm with a caul and put a drop of thin CA on each end. It wicks into the slot and holds them tight.
I don’t know if you bevel the tops of your slots, but it’s a good practice, too. It helps the frets go in cleanly and minimizes chip-out both on entry and if a fret needs to be removed.
There’s no hard and fast rule that says frets must be glued, however, or which glue to use. I’ve heard of people successfully using CA, Titebond, white, epoxy, and none at all. I always dampen the area around a fret and then heat it with a soldering iron when removing, as I never know for sure how it’s been seated.
I’ve used the thicker stuff a lot in the past, too, for the same reason. Recently, I’ve started filling the ends with melted black shellac stick. Hopefully that will stand the test of time, but if it doesn’t I might go back to the thicker CA, or maybe tinted epoxy.
I remember back many years ago when I visited Bill Collins in Austin Texas to see his little work shop when he was just getting started in the business. I don't think CA glue was available then, so he used a mixture of rosewood dust and white glue to make a putty to fill the open ends of the frets slots.
There have been so many improvements since then, that it's mind boggling, all the many ways it can be done today.
Thanks for sharing, especially for the readers who want to know the why's and wherefores of fret work.
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