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Normally I do not make a separate Heelcap. In the hustle and bustle of the day two mistakes happened. At first I took too much material to make a miter of the purflings. Then I cut the purflings too short to get a clean joint. Everything else has become very good. This has not happened for a long time, but making mistakes is not hard as you can see! I do not want to fill up here because it will always look like bad work. I thought about lengthening the heelcap in the back, what do you think of it? Version 1 with a small triangle of Rosewood and a Maple Heelcap and Version 2 only with a RW cap. Are there any other suggestions to fix this?
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RE: Imprecise work - need advice (in reply to Vince)
Make the miter on the binding, set the heel cap down into the miters, but don't sink the triangle into the back strip! Use a dark rosewood to make the heel cap.
RE: Imprecise work - need advice (in reply to Vince)
I think Stephen Eden does his heel cap like your third version. It looks fine, he recently had some posts on building a cedar top negra which if I recall shows his heel.
RE: Imprecise work - need advice (in reply to Vince)
Thats how it looks now! I decide not to make a joint in the Maple Stripe because it will always be visible in light colored wood. (Heel not yet formed)
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RE: Imprecise work - need advice (in reply to Anders Eliasson)
You can asked me nearly everything Anders!
I make my bindings normally 2,5 mm wide. I route the channel 2,5 mm and install the 2,6mm Binding. When I use ebony or another brittle wood I go for 2mm, but all depending on the overall scheme I have planned. If I use 2,5 mm I set the tentelones next to each other or use solid linings to avoid glue running inside.
Please note, the binding is only the Maple, the Purfling at the back is set separate and is 1,5mm wide.
RE: Imprecise work - need advice (in reply to Vince)
I like the look of thick bindings, but I dont like what it does to the guitar structurally. If you rout away the thickness of the side, then the side itself will only be glued to a very small part of the tentellones or the back lining. And thats not very strong It is structurally a lot stronger to make a thinner binding and glue them on what is left of the sides after routing. So, IMHO, a 2,3mm thick side should have something like 2mm routed away. That way the binding makes the guitar structurally stronger and not weaker.
It is of course only my opinion and others may not agree.
RE: Imprecise work - need advice (in reply to Anders Eliasson)
Anders
Very interesting!
Have you considered that the strength of the plate-side joint affects the sound? It is not just a structural consideration. From violins I know that the stronger the linings the brighter the sound, and that the smaller the linings the darker the sound. So the dimensions of the linings are first of all an acoustic consideration.
I a not saying that one configuration is better than the other one, I am just saying that it affects the overall balance of the instrument and it depends on everything else that you do. Ok, yes, this is a minor criteria, not a major one like the thickness of the front. Just one more thing to think about.
Njaal
quote:
I like the look of thick bindings, but I dont like what it does to the guitar structurally. If you rout away the thickness of the side, then the side itself will only be glued to a very small part of the tentellones or the back lining. And thats not very strong It is structurally a lot stronger to make a thinner binding and glue them on what is left of the sides after routing. So, IMHO, a 2,3mm thick side should have something like 2mm routed away. That way the binding makes the guitar structurally stronger and not weaker.
It is of course only my opinion and others may not agree.
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with nice luthiers! 
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