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Any self taught Flamenco guitar builder here?
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Jim Kirby
Posts: 149
Joined: Jul. 14 2011
From: Newark, DE, USA
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RE: Any self taught Flamenco guitar ... (in reply to hopkinWFG)
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Sort of self taught here - I did spend a week with a good teacher building a steel string, after having made one myself from a "serviced" Martin kit. This was all back before I built any classical or flamenco guitars. I've never had any specific instruction there beyond books, videos and the internet. A serviced kit can be a big help as it takes care of a lot of the details that a casual woodworker isn't set up to do, like bending sides, inlaying a rosette, etc. You need to choose whether you want to go that route, or do it all yourself. (An unserviced kit is basically just a box of parts as you would buy them indivdually, but selected so that you have everything you need.) Classical and flamenco guitars are, at first glance, the same. The differences lie in the details - how thick is the top, how is it braced, string height at bridge and 12th fret, etc. Basic construction procedures don't really differ, so a classical guitar book or video lesson is still appropriate.
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REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |
Date Sep. 29 2014 12:35:50
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Jim Kirby
Posts: 149
Joined: Jul. 14 2011
From: Newark, DE, USA
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RE: Any self taught Flamenco guitar ... (in reply to hopkinWFG)
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Well, let's see what I use to build a neck: start with 1" by 3" by 36" blank. I make the cut for a scarf joint with a bandsaw, but, lacking that, I'd pull out my Japanese ryoba. plane the mating surface on the scarf joint - block plane (I use an old Stanley #3 instead - good find). clamps for gluing up scarf, heel stack - need some decent C clamps or small bar clamps I'm starting to do wedge slots to attach neck to sides, but before that I cut side-thickness slots using the ryoba for first cut, then drop scraper in slot and cut down again beside it. Paring chisel to cut rebate on top of heel block to join top to. Most of neck and heel shaping done with a fairly flat gouge, rasp, and scraper blade. drill bit to cut ends of head slots, then coping saw to remove waste, clean up slots with paring chisel. Drill tuner holes (do this first, so you don't blow out sides of head slots.) (I do this all now using the LMI headstock jig). So, what did I suggest at minimum, and what do I really use: paring chisel gouge rasp (I've got some Auriou rasps - really nice. Also some nice auto-body files) scraper two drill bits (I cut the head slots using the LMI jig and a plunge router) coping saw ryoba (my larger slots for wedges are now done using a table saw jig, scarf joint cut done on bandsaw.) block plane (I use a #3 instead clamps (more clamps!) You can see how the tool pile starts to build up quickly - don't think building your own is a route to saving money
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REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |
Date Sep. 30 2014 19:07:08
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