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RE: Photo essay of the making of a c... (in reply to Anders Eliasson)
Just titebond. And on the purfling I use a LOT of small pieces of tape to hold it in place. Its very flexible though, so its easy to get it glued. As you wrote, this is one the most difficult things to make on a guitar and its very timeconsuming. You have to work with a precission of 1/10 of a mm.
RE: Photo essay of the making of a c... (in reply to Anders Eliasson)
quote:
ORIGINAL: Anders Eliasson
Just titebond. And on the purfling I use a LOT of small pieces of tape to hold it in place. Its very flexible though, so its easy to get it glued. As you wrote, this is one the most difficult things to make on a guitar and its very timeconsuming. You have to work with a precission of 1/10 of a mm.
Thanks for that info. It's fascinating to learn of aspects to the guitar I wouldn't have known otherwise.
RE: Photo essay of the making of a c... (in reply to Anders Eliasson)
Nice Job!! I like the Maple purflings. It looks very clean! My bindings always get really messy with the glue and the tape. Last time the tape ripped out a small grain out of a cedar top. I really need to solve this... I am thinking to put on a washcoat of shellac before routing out the binding channels. How do you clean up after gluing? and do you use lots of glue?
RE: Photo essay of the making of a c... (in reply to Anders Eliasson)
quote:
It looks very clean! My bindings always get really messy with the glue and the tape. Last time the tape ripped out a small grain out of a cedar top. I really need to solve this... I am thinking to put on a washcoat of shellac before routing out the binding channels. How do you clean up after gluing? and do you use lots of glue?
A wash coat might help a little bit, but what matters the most is to keeo your tools really sharp. I give my routing bit a touch up on a diamond stone every time I rout. I clean after the gluing with a normal cabinet scraper. And again, it has to be really sharp and you have to be patient and cut of small amounts of wood and glue squeseout with every stroke. Put on some relaxing music. I helps a lot. Tape on tops: find out which way your grain run and take off the tape in a 45 degree angle following the grain run. Then you wont lift anything. I dont use lots of glue, but I try not to overdoo it. Gluing binding and purfling is messy, but I clean of the glue after doing the roping and before the glue settles.
RE: Photo essay of the making of a c... (in reply to Wayne Brown)
quote:
ORIGINAL: Wayne Brown
To keep from pulling out fibers on your top when removing tape, use a hairdryer or heat gun to soften the adhesive before removing.
Applying a couple of wash coats of shellac around the edges and letting dry before the tape does a nice job as well. The shellac seals the wood to some extent and stabilizes its fibers.
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Joined: Jan. 29 2012
From: Seattle, Washington, USA
RE: Photo essay of the making of a c... (in reply to Anders Eliasson)
Anders, I am sure you know this, but for the benefit of others I want to mention something:
Often the staircase is done without cutting the purfling rabbet all the way through the back--so that more of the back can remain glued to the lining. I had though that was the only reason for doing a staircase, but I can see that your method is also good.
RE: Photo essay of the making of a c... (in reply to Stephen Eden)
If a full depth purfling is used the purfling is glued to the end-grain of the top or back at least in some places. With a staircase the purfling is nicely glued to the bottom of the channel and then the binding glues to that. That is my understanding of it. Of course having more top and back extending towards the edges and saving on fancy purfling are good reasons too.
RE: Photo essay of the making of a c... (in reply to johnguitar)
quote:
ORIGINAL: johnguitar
If a full depth purfling is used the purfling is glued to the end-grain of the top or back at least in some places. With a staircase the purfling is nicely glued to the bottom of the channel and then the binding glues to that.
Sorry but this doesn't make sense to me. It strikes me that you're gluing to some end grain with either method.
RE: Photo essay of the making of a c... (in reply to Anders Eliasson)
I do the staircase like Ethan describes without routing through the top or back. For me it matters more on the top where I might have .200" of binding plus purfling width. I wouldn't want to rout out that much tentellone so I cut the purfling channels only about .060" deep.
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