Aria AC-70F blanca

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Aria AC-70F blanca

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Ramon Amira

Posts: 1025
Joined: Oct. 14 2009
From: New York City

Aria AC-70F blanca

I had an inquiry from one of my students who is thinking about buying a used flamenco guitar - Aria AC-70F, about ten years old. In the seventies and eighties I used to recommend Aria guitars for my students because I found them to be very good for the price.

This was a Japanese company that I think built in Spain. I assumed they were out of business by now, but I don't know. Has anyone ever played or heard this model, and if so, what do you think of it?

Ramon

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Classical and flamenco guitars from Spain Ramon Amira Guitars

REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE | Date Sep. 5 2011 19:57:11

sig

Posts: 296
Joined: Nov. 7 2007
From: Wisconsin

RE: Aria AC-70F blanca (in reply to Ramon Amira)

PC,
I actually played an AC-70F about 8 years ago and it was a new model. Pretty decent guitar for the money, I think they were asking around $700 at the time. I believe this is the entry level model with laminate back and sides but solid top. I almost bought it until I found a Rodriguez C3F for around $350 which seemed like a better buy at the time. I think the AC-100F is the mid- model and the AC-150F is the "top" model.

I'm not sure about this line of instruments anymore...
Sig--

REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE | Date Sep. 8 2011 15:07:14

Steve Wright

Posts: 120
Joined: May 11 2011
From: Scotland Fife UK

RE: Aria AC-70F blanca (in reply to Ramon Amira)

I believe Aria are still going. I have one here - about ten years old or more - and it's not good at all. I'm not saying they don't make good guitars for the money. This one has been left in the loft in a cold Scottish climate for years which has resulted in the soundboard rising at the bridge. It's also been vandalised by an enthusiast trying to lower the action - so who knows what it should sound like. Just now it doesn't inspire me.

Talking of cheap guitars, I've just tried out and bought a Walden N660CE RRP £300. It's 'classical' cutaway electro nylon strung with solid sitka spruce top and Indian rosewood sides, designed in the USA and made in China. The sound is nice - not as good as my Martin Classical, but suitable for playing flamenco - cutting sound. I've lower the action and enjoy it - especially having the cutaway. I never liked cutaways when they first came on the market and I still have a bit of a problem with the shape, but I like to reach these higher chords and notes. The finish is not fantastic, but not a problem for people like me - I couldn't expect more. It has perfect intonation and a nice flamenco sound. It is made as a "Classical" guitar, but I would say it has a poor sound for classical.

_____________________________

Rhythm, grace & passion. El ritmo, gracia & la pasión
Be the change you want to see in this world - Gandhi

http://www.youtube.com/user/FusionMusic1000

REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE | Date Sep. 12 2011 22:30:29

FullMetalGuitarist

Posts: 88
Joined: Aug. 22 2011

RE: Aria AC-70F blanca (in reply to Steve Wright)

Thats interesting to hear Steve.

A year ago i bought Walden N2010 (cause in my place its extremely hard to find a flamenco guitar) because it has kind of sad, less resonant sound that fits more to flamenco. I planed taking her to a lutherie to lower the action (and get rid of the satin coat) but later I bought an Esteve F5 ,so now it simply lays in her box.

Assuming that those guitars had been built in the same way , how much work was needed to convert it into a flamenco guitar?

By the way , i find the N2010's neck very thin than any usual classic and flamenco guitars , is it so on the N660?

REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE | Date Oct. 7 2011 9:29:15

Steve Wright

Posts: 120
Joined: May 11 2011
From: Scotland Fife UK

RE: Aria AC-70F blanca (in reply to FullMetalGuitarist)

Hi Mark, I was looking at an Esteve F5 on the web last night. Hope you enjoy it. Don't get me wrong, I have this Walden N660 because I don't have spare cash to buy the real thing. I must hasten to add, that my knowledge of the flamenco guitar is not at all accurate. For example, I have the action at 2.5mm at the 12th fret, but I didn't realise that ideally you also need a clearance of 9mm or thereabouts at he saddle end. Mine is 11mm, which is to high. Hence, when you come to emulate a decent player, you will always find it harder to do and may in fact cause damage to various parts of the body.

My Guitar was designed in the USA and manufactured in China.

You ask " how much work was needed to convert it into a flamenco guitar? "

Well, as stated, it's not really a flamenco guitar. I reckon the neck could do with being reset to make it more acceptable for flamenco. However, it gives me pleasure and has advanced my skills in trying this style of music.

I found the work easy because I have build electric guitars and tweaked guitars for 35 years. I don't think it's too hard for anyone who has a good handling of basic tools. However, you may end up replacing the "Nut &/or the Saddle" if you mess things up. What I can say is that most music shops have a technician who will lower the action for you as long as you know how low you want it at the nut & saddle.

My method as taken from this discussion: http://www.foroflamenco.com/tm.asp?m=178943&appid=&p=&mpage=1&key=nut%2Cfile&tmode=&smode=&s=#178977

I feel this is the only accurate way, as Gimar says. I file each slot down with a set of files on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FILE-SET-12-ROUND-AND-1-FLAT-FILE-FREE-POSTAGE-/250709777933?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&hash=item3a5f779e0d#ht_5173wt_1127 so you can use the correct size for each slot.

I use a metal gauge to stop me filing it too low - this happens to be a Paper knife (don't tell my wife). I don't need a vice for this as I put the guitar on a blanket/carpet and hold the neck by hand.

I never file the under-side of the nut or saddle now as it is too easy to get it wrong and affect the overall balance of the volume/intensity that each string will have - due to it's connection to the guitar. If it is not straight, some of the strings will have less volume than they should. This is even more critical should you have a pick-up under the saddle. Keep in mind if you ever fit a pick-up that it obviously raises the saddle, but also could put undue strain on the bridge (over years) I used to use a coping saw, but it's too easy to use and go over-board.

Saddles, I determine how low the action is at the 12th fret, how much it needs to come down by, times it by 2 and make pencil marks on the saddle. It also determine whether the saddle can be flat or domed. Before filing the saddle (or grinder) I determine what the intonation is like and whether I need to leave a bit of height to allow me to adjust the intonation.

I find this method gives me perfect results.

You remarked that " the N2010's neck very thin than any usual classic and flamenco guitars , is it so on the N660?" Yes, it is thin and I like it that way, very much the same as my Martin, however, if it's made of inferior woods, I'm sure it will have some movement sooner or later. Keeping that in mind, you might find a time when you need to buy another saddle and re-set (trim) as you may start to get buzzing or too high clearance.

I just like having the guitar around, so it doesn't matter too much if it get a battering - although I do like to take care of it. Hope this helps.

_____________________________

Rhythm, grace & passion. El ritmo, gracia & la pasión
Be the change you want to see in this world - Gandhi

http://www.youtube.com/user/FusionMusic1000

REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE | Date Oct. 7 2011 14:24:37