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Steve Wright -> RE: Aria AC-70F blanca (Oct. 7 2011 14:24:37)
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Hi Mark, I was looking at an Esteve F5 on the web last night. Hope you enjoy it. Don't get me wrong, I have this Walden N660 because I don't have spare cash to buy the real thing. I must hasten to add, that my knowledge of the flamenco guitar is not at all accurate. For example, I have the action at 2.5mm at the 12th fret, but I didn't realise that ideally you also need a clearance of 9mm or thereabouts at he saddle end. Mine is 11mm, which is to high. Hence, when you come to emulate a decent player, you will always find it harder to do and may in fact cause damage to various parts of the body.
My Guitar was designed in the USA and manufactured in China.
You ask " how much work was needed to convert it into a flamenco guitar? "
Well, as stated, it's not really a flamenco guitar. I reckon the neck could do with being reset to make it more acceptable for flamenco. However, it gives me pleasure and has advanced my skills in trying this style of music.
I found the work easy because I have build electric guitars and tweaked guitars for 35 years. I don't think it's too hard for anyone who has a good handling of basic tools. However, you may end up replacing the "Nut &/or the Saddle" if you mess things up. What I can say is that most music shops have a technician who will lower the action for you as long as you know how low you want it at the nut & saddle.
My method as taken from this discussion: http://www.foroflamenco.com/tm.asp?m=178943&appid=&p=&mpage=1&key=nut%2Cfile&tmode=&smode=&s=#178977
I feel this is the only accurate way, as Gimar says. I file each slot down with a set of files on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FILE-SET-12-ROUND-AND-1-FLAT-FILE-FREE-POSTAGE-/250709777933?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&hash=item3a5f779e0d#ht_5173wt_1127 so you can use the correct size for each slot.
I use a metal gauge to stop me filing it too low - this happens to be a Paper knife (don't tell my wife). I don't need a vice for this as I put the guitar on a blanket/carpet and hold the neck by hand.
I never file the under-side of the nut or saddle now as it is too easy to get it wrong and affect the overall balance of the volume/intensity that each string will have - due to it's connection to the guitar. If it is not straight, some of the strings will have less volume than they should. This is even more critical should you have a pick-up under the saddle. Keep in mind if you ever fit a pick-up that it obviously raises the saddle, but also could put undue strain on the bridge (over years) I used to use a coping saw, but it's too easy to use and go over-board.
Saddles, I determine how low the action is at the 12th fret, how much it needs to come down by, times it by 2 and make pencil marks on the saddle. It also determine whether the saddle can be flat or domed. Before filing the saddle (or grinder) I determine what the intonation is like and whether I need to leave a bit of height to allow me to adjust the intonation.
I find this method gives me perfect results.
You remarked that " the N2010's neck very thin than any usual classic and flamenco guitars , is it so on the N660?" Yes, it is thin and I like it that way, very much the same as my Martin, however, if it's made of inferior woods, I'm sure it will have some movement sooner or later. Keeping that in mind, you might find a time when you need to buy another saddle and re-set (trim) as you may start to get buzzing or too high clearance.
I just like having the guitar around, so it doesn't matter too much if it get a battering - although I do like to take care of it. Hope this helps.
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