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wet sanding
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ernandez R
Posts: 758
Joined: Mar. 25 2019
From: Alaska USA
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RE: wet sanding (in reply to mango)
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Hay Brother, good to see you are still at it! I use Naphtha. But like Rob I dry sand only early in the game. For the top I use only a vary well worn 320g. Back and sides a well worn 220g. I spit coat with a folded Cotten pad wet with no oil as many passes as I can get in a day then let dry overnight. I sand fairly aggressively in the morning. 4-5 days and don’t even think about polishing with the Munaca with oil until I’ve got things well sealed and leveled accordingly. Always seems I get a few pits in the rosette and bindings which I drop fill medium CA with a toothpick. I totally ruined my last WRC top when I accidentally used the ultra thin CA around the bonding, you’ve been warned :/ The top: Once I’m into polishing mode with oil and wool filled Cotten covered manuca I pad throughout the day then in the following morning I pre clean scrupulously with Naptha then I sand with a small block about 4cm long and 2cm wide, long edges rounded but short edges square. Two layers of paper towel as a pad between the block and paper. Clean, clean, clean! I’ll start with well worn 400g w&d, then 600g a day or two into it, then 1200g. A lot of zen here as to how or when. Seems oil is too thick for 600g or finer. I like to use worn/used paper as I find they don’t have any rogue grit that causes a deep scratch. Clean is the name of the game, I’ve buggered a couple tops when I let some crud get in the mix. I only ever sand perfectly with the grain. I drop the Naptha on the sandpaper. I keep a clean folded section of paper towel to wipe the sandpaper clean fairly often. After about two passes I’ll clean the whole surface with a damp Naptha paper towel. Then go at it again. Took me longer to write this then to do it ;) Get your game on doing the back first. I Like to do the back, get my grove on, then the ribs and neck and I save the top for last. I take notes and got a simple checklist for drops of fluid, manuca passes, paper grits, shop temp and humidity. First time with Naptha or oil or water( screw water, asking for trouble) make a test panel and use it first! And remember: only ever sand, wipe, and clean with the grain HR ps. Last three guitars I shellacked the top without the fretboard, oh man what a breeze and no more janky polish right there at the fretboard/rosette/upper bought. Pali who posts here from Spain does it that way, I gave it a try and… ¡olé! pps. I use these common black short nap floor mats in the shop to line the work benches, fibers are only about 4-5mm high, I found that they are perfect for cleaning the shellac dust out of the sand paper fibers as I’m dry sanding one or two passes with the paper then a few quick wipes on the rug and ready for another pass on the wood.
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I prefer my flamenco guitar spicy, doesn't have to be fast, should have some meat on the bones, can be raw or well done, as long as it doesn't sound like it's turning green on an elevator floor. www.instagram.com/threeriversguitars
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Date Jul. 5 2023 0:31:19
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