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It depends how serious you feel about this. A good luthier will be able to plane down the ebony from the 12th fret back up to the nut inorder to re-fret and re-set the action. It might be that the work won't be too hard to do but it's a professional job. Best also to find a maker who has experience in flamencos as classical makers might not understand what you are looking for.
you need to check how much saddle is above the slot on the bridge, if there is some left and the break angle is still good you can still lower this. A good guitar maker, as jim suggests, one who knows flamencos should be able to get things right.
What is the problem? Do you want the strings closer to the frets? In this case the two options that has been mentioned are what you have.
1) lowering the bridge saddle..
2) if you cant, refret and plane (sand) the fingerboard. Do as Jim sais if you want the strings higher at the bridge and the opposite if you want them lower.
A trussrod is not for changing neck angle, but for adjusting relief.... Changing neckangle with the truss rod gives poor playability....
Jason. I find that 20 - 30 degrees are a good breakangle.
How straight is the neck? If you put a short straight edge from fret 1 to 12 and look underneath how much space do you have at 5th and 7th fret? This is called the relief and its what you adjust with a truss rod.
I tried the straight edge measurement you suggested and the neck appears to be straight. I put the straight edge at various places on the neck and there were no gaps underneath it wherever it was placed.
I also looked at the bridge saddle and there's not much material left for adjustments. The white plastic part of the saddle is probably only about 1/8" or so, if that, above the wood portion.
Not all straight edges are straight or at hand but every guitar has six that are always there and guaranteed for straightness. Just press a string at two frets and read the gap between string and neck (or the frets rather) between these two frets. For example, press the string at 1st fret and 13th to check the whole neck.
You are not totally right, they are not there when you take the strings of or before you finish the instrument. I guess thats why I forgot to mention the strings, because I work a lot of guitars without strings on.
NeZ Then the problem is not that the neck has warped. There´s an option of shaving a milimeter or so of the bridge. It depends on 2 factors:
How high is the bridge and how steep is the breakangle of the string over the saddle.
Hejsan Per I did not feel corrected at all and you are completely right... And besides relief should be tested with strings on, because a lot of guitars, especially those without neck reinforcement change relief with different string tensions.
You know sometimes we all forget the easiest solutions, but I also check relief using the "string straightedge" There are no better way...
I checked out your website (very nice looking guitars, by the way) and saw that you set your Flamencos up with 3mm or so string height at the 12th fret.
I measured mine (with admittedly inaccurate tools) and it looks like my classical is somewhere in the 5.5mm range for string height at the 12th fret, give or take a mm or so due to my measuring tools.
What's the average or standard height for Classicals? Maybe mine isn't so far out of whack as I thought.
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and you are completely right... And besides relief should be tested with strings on, because a lot of guitars, especially those without neck reinforcement change relief with different string tensions. 
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