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What is the proper technique to tune a guitar with pegs? Also, if pegs slip, what can be applied to them so they won't do that? If pegs are too tight, what is applied? Thanks.
While you turn the peg with your left hand, hold the neck with your right hand palm against the fingerboard and push in the peg while turning it.
Many people use different things on pegs. What I like best is chalk. Brown chalk if you can find one. I also like talcum powder. Chalk and powder help if the pegs are both either tight or loose.
You need to track down some 'French Chalk' (I don't know what it will be called in the US) It's a very fine powder a bit like talc powder. You might find it in a good instrument store if there's one close by or an instrument repair shop, maybe a violin shop.
Take the pegs out and smear the chalk around the shaft, don't use too much, just a smear. This allows the pegs to move freely but still maintain a friction grip.
Always remember that you tune up by turning and pushing the peg upwards when you hear the correct pitch. Make sure to put counter pressure with your other hand otherwise the whole job is next to impossible. By this I mean that you hold the guitar head in your right hand and push the peg with your left up as if into the palm of your right hand. This takes pressure of the guitar neck.
Good pegs on a quality guitar work really well but it takes practice and the FC will definately help. Good luck.
Ment to add, that if you continually push up you will lock the peg tighter so you need to learn to judge when to do this as opposed to just turning. A slight pressure upwards then check the pitch, if ok push a bit more, if not you can generally still turn the peg for fine adjustment. You will see peghead players adjust the pitch by pressing above the nut to raise the tone or just pulling out on the string to lower the pitch.......I think that's it
If a peg is sticking take it out and mark it with a pencil where it is in contact with the wood on the head. The graphite acts as a dry lubricant. Be careful not to put too many marks or it will slip.
If a peg is slipping I take it out and sand the shiny areas with fine sand paper (220 grit or above is fine) just enough to take the shine off. Sand lengthwise on the peg don't spin the peg against the sand paper.
Do one peg at a time and put it back. Make sure you always put the peg back in the same hole in came from. If you take them all out make sure you mark them so they don't get mixed up.
I can only speak of my experience with my Manual de la Chica, which I purchased July of 1970. I applied a small amount of peg dope (used for violins) on the date of purchase and that was that! It helps to have a guitar that is well constructed.
The nice thing about pegs as far as I am concerned is that I can change a set of strings in about 6 minutes between shows.
You can replace one string at a time or remove all at one time and restring one at a time. Cleaning between frets is not easy when you replace one string at a time. When a guitar is built it does not come with the six strings automatically attached. There are those that will argue that only one string at a time should be replaced or else your instrument will be damaged. Do as you please.
Yes, I was the highest bidder and won the Oribe on Ebay. It is the sweetest sounding flamenco I have ever heard! And, it is really easy for me to play. I am very, very happy! I really don't have and problems with the pegs. I just wanted to find out what I would do in case of slippage or sticking. And, I wanted advice regarding how to properly tune with pegs. Thanks.
Well, this can de done in many ways, and I´m not going to say mine is the best. I used to play classical violin with gust strings, meaning no fine tuners, and so the pegs are very important. There I learnt to use chalk and soap.... I think its a very nice way to do so, but its easyer to use a powder like very fine pummice or rottenstone and mix it with soap or wheelbearing grease.....
The idea is to make a thick film between the headstock and the peg, so that the peg actually runs in this film. Wood on wood will always bite or stick and never be precise. The more greasy stuff (soap or grease) you add, the more it slips, and the more powder (chalk, pumice or rottenstone), the more it sticks.
Normally you have to do this a couple of times and then it will last for a long time, making tuning no big problem.
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i almost wrote "i do pigs again" 
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