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I'm very thrilled, in june I'll be traveling to Andalucia to study flamenco with great maestros, this is my first time in Spain so I don't really know what to expect, I have scheduled a two week period per city, first in Jerez de la frontera with el carbonero, then in carmen de las cuevas in Granada and finally to the festival de la guitarra in Cordoba , I'm wondering if anyone here has ever been in any of this places?? any advices on where to stay, eat and visit... I'm getting inspired of just looking at the pictures, the alhambra, la mezquita... I can't wait to be there , cheers
Hey man, I think depending on my level I'll be initially assigned to a teacher so I don't know yet, hopefully I would be learning to accompany wich is my main goal for now so it really goes down to the singers as well. Manolo will be in Cordoba, along with Metheny and Barrueco and other famous guys which I don't know well, the flamenco area has three teachers and hopefully they'll be rotating so everyone learns from each one of them plus the concerts everyday! much to learn..
Sounds like a very well planned schedule. You´ve done your homework well. I hope it wont be to hot (it will )
If you want a nice dinner or lunch in Granada, I recommend Albahaca in calle Varela. Around 10 - 12 euros the menu at lunch time, and quality and atmosphere is very nice. Why don´t you call me, and lets see if I can come down from the mountains and have lunch with you. Tlf on my website.
Steady now Anders, the air is heavy down there you know
Albahaca is such a lovely arab word but I just can't imagine eating in a restaurant in London called 'Basil'. Guess it has too many associations wth a certain guest house owner
Carlos enjoy you lucky devil
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nigel (el raton de Watford - now Puerto de Santa Maria, Cadiz)
At first, I too thought it meant basil. However, the 'h' is silent in Spanish so I realised that this is a different word, unless Anders misspelt it...
Great trip, but take care, it will be hot and you are taking on a lot of work. I've been to Cordoba on the course. Check out hotel 'El Triumpho' the spelling might not be right but it is between the river and the Mezquita just at the bridge, you can't miss it, it has some classical columns standing just outside. Thing is it's quite innexpensive, tidy and has air con, an absolute must. It is also very handy for the course office and the teaching venue (if it is still in the municipal building by the Mezquita)
Be careful not to take too much on, it's amazing how easy it can be to get exhausted with too much rattling round your brain, things to learn, the heat and the travel.
Anyway, have a good time and make sure to say helo to Anders and Simon if you can.
Carlos how is your spanish? from your name I imagine excellent. Anyway I just wanted to back up Jim. I find the heat impossible and the thought of concentrating beyond belief. As Jim said, no matter what cost, you must have AC. And if Anders wont come down from the mountains a number 13 bus will get you there in no time for next to nothing. It is a little cooler up there (not much )
Exitao do you have another way of spelling it?
Albahaca Es una de las plantas aromáticas más preciosas en cocina, es considerada insustituible por un gourmet.
I love the stuff with tomatoes. I imagine with the heat in Andalucia it grows in no time. Is it on your balcon Simon?
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nigel (el raton de Watford - now Puerto de Santa Maria, Cadiz)
Sounds like a great trip. I'll meet up with you if you do lunch at ALbahaca, always a pleasure to see Anders and Simon and last time we met up it was just closing and we had to eat at Europa, guirri food as Anders calls it ( ie foreign) chips with everything.
You will find there is a great social scene at Carmen las Cuevas and you'll get to know the Albaicin well, be prepared to walk a lot and stay out late at night. Be sure to check out the Peña Platería, La Bulería, Venta del Gallo and the Eshavira. ( This weekend Kiki Morente ( son of Enrique) sang there accompanied by Juan Habichuela ( Grandson to the maestro).
Best cheap place to eat in Albaicin is the Torcuato which has moved recently to Calle del Agua. They do a set menu every day and you will often spot the local flamencos there. I saw Manolete there over the weekend.
You'll probably get accomodation organised by Carmen Las Cuevas, which is a good option as you share with fellow students, but if not I reccomend http://www.elnumero8.com/ ( Anders used to live there and it is now self catering apartments) funky atmosphere, great landlord ( speaks English) and even shows late night films on the terrace, and of course views of the Alhambra.
This is a serious WTF moment for me. A Basque draft-dodging Spaniard buddy of mine taught me the word 17 years ago. I remember very clearly that he used a hard "H" so I assumed it was spelled with a "J" He was a pre-med student and always made a point of making sure my Spanish was quality.
In 17 years no one has ever corrected me on this. I'll be talking with the Chilean ladies at work today.
I love the stuff with tomatoes. I imagine with the heat in Andalucia it grows in no time. Is it on your balcon Simon?
Nice thought but no, only my dog is on the balcony at the moment looking down into the street. I would like to try Albahaca. Let me know.
I arrived here last June, the heat was very draining and it just got worse. I do not have A/C but will need it this year, in my office to work and the bedroom to sleep. With A/C I could work, without it I could not.
I love the stuff with tomatoes. I imagine with the heat in Andalucia it grows in no time. Is it on your balcon Simon?
I planted my Albahaca just before Easter, two days later I had pots and pots of seedlings. Hope they grow into big plants and dont find the heat too much on the terrace.
Talking of which, June wont be as hot as July but if you follow the example of the locals you cope better. Always walk in the shade, never sit in the midday sun ( midday here is 2 pm), get your shopping done early morning when it is cooler, spend the afternoons asleep, leave your windows/shutters open at night to catch the night air, close them in the day to keep the room cool, drink lots of ice cold Gazpacho. In Granada the cool breeze from the mountains comes down after about 9 pm, that's the time to go out and socialize, people eat from 10 pm until midnight after which the nightlife really kicks off. Whne it gets too much flee to the Sierra where you will still find snow to roll about in
Wow, thank you all! my spanish is from Chile which is fast so hopefully I'll be able to catch andaluces. I didn't thought weather could be a factor in Spain that's good to know, I really like the idea of eating at 10pm and go out at 12 ...sounds just like me What's the official drink over there? I heard Jerez has some nice wines but haven't heard of Granada and Cordoba, I suppose legal age to drink is 18 right? If so drinks are on me! Jim El Trinfo seems just perfect, is right next to the mezquita!! thanks.
What's the official drink over there? I heard Jerez has some nice wines but haven't heard of Granada and Cordoba, I suppose legal age to drink is 18 right? If so drinks are on me!
Hey great mine's a Rioja, that's wine from the North. In Jerez THE drink is sherry, some many types from dry pale fino, manzanilla and even more that get darker and sweeter. In Granada the youngsters all seem to go for Whisky and coke or rum and coke, the local rum is a must try called Palido which is the closest I've come to hallucinating on alcohol, and of course the local beer Alhambra. They also drink tinto verano which is a wine and lemonade mix, or sangria which is wine, fruit and brandy, both with lots of ice. There's also a wine and coke mix which I've never tried as it sounds revolting, who could do that to wine ??? Legal age to drink is 18 in the bars and I think 14 if you are having a meal. Whatever you are unlikely to be asked for ID. Measures are large, ie about five times the size of a UK measure, so watch out !!
They also drink tinto verano which is a wine and lemonade mix, or sangria which is wine, fruit and brandy, both with lots of ice. There's also a wine and coke mix which I've never tried as it sounds revolting, who could do that to wine ???
Tinto ver ano As my friends tease me when I say it. Red wine and some clear soda on ice. Tinto limon is red wine and lemon Fanta (lemon soda). With ice. Very refreshing. Wine and coke is Calemocho. Good actually, again on ice, if you don't want to get too hot and drunk. Red wine warms me up and too much I start to get sleepy and drunk. In the summer you mix red wine with soda or coke, it is refreshing, and you can keep partying. Taky, but "cool". Manzanilla is the most "flamenco" drink IMO. Good with jamon serrano, manchego, and sea food.
Carlos, my wife is from Nicaragua. When I go down there, I can't follow anything they are yapping about, but in Spain I was able to get by on my own. Maybe if you know the flamenco lingo, and that is who you hang with, it is easier to follow and converse. The hardest for me was the cab rides with the guys who wanted to chat.
Tinto ver ano As my friends tease me when I say it.
LOL! Ricardo....I hadn't thought about that one before.
BTW I'm the fool who learned the hard way that "miraculo" does NOT mean "miracle". I don't know why, but once you start getting a bit more confident in speaking basic Spanish, you're somehow tempted to start "inventing" words instead of looking them up.
Calemucho, that stuffs rotten....the spanish students here drink it cause its cheap and easy to get drunk off it...oh god the pain of the hangover after drinking 2litres of it.
drink a despardo if you can get some(premixed beer with tequila) its good stuff. martini and fanta lemon is veyr refreshing though.
hhahaha tinto ver ano... once u drink up it gets easier , the only problem with language is I can understand them but they can't understand me so I have to drop the accent and speak very very slow, sometimes I fell like a spanish teacher with my southamerican and spanish classmates
I was think of doing the same thing, taking some lessons in the south of Spain, but I was unable to find information on prices for el Carbenero, can you tell how much they are?
Also, has anyone of heard of the Cristina Heeren Flamenco Foundation in Seville? http://www.flamencoheeren.com If so, what is your opinion of it?
Hey man, I don't know exactly, I think you can choose how much time to be there so it depends. I'm still changing things though, I talked to a spanish guy and he told me that Gerardo classes were way better so I emailed Gerardo to see what things I need to know and to check prices as well but he said that he had a concert and he would answer in detail when he's back so I'll tell you about it.
Thanks Carlos. Yeah, please let me know about Gerardos classes, does he have a web site where you got his email? I'm trying to set something up as well, I'm just not sure where to go yet. Also, how long have you been playing?
I just got Gerardo's email about the classes, he said that basically "you just need the desire to live flamenco" there're parties every night with 5 singers for the students, it doesn't matter the level you have because you'll be placed with people with your same knowledge.
I think the class has an english web version, check www.cursoflamenco.com Ricardo here has done Gerardo's class several times and he gave me possitive feedback about it, I talked with some spanish guys and said it was the best option as well. It may be a short class but that's not a matter if you can get as much as information and material to learn on your own later... cheers