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If you make larger tiles fitting the together in a convincing way becomes the problem. You can solve it by making the pattern more forgiving by using the same color along the edges that join together, or other strategies for fitting them without misalignment of the pattern.
You can also make two 11 x 11 tiles that work together as a unit to make a bigger tile.
I like 11 x 11, but I've done 15 x 15 and other sizes, but pinching the loaf of molding it in two small boards that give it a bit or taper. You only need to approximate the taper because if you work with hot hide glue the tiles with expand and compress into each other.
I've laid out the exact taper with a compass and a center point with lines drawn out that intersect with the width of the tile at the correct distance from the center point. You can use that as a template to hand cut each tile if you make big tiles out of burl swatches and stuff.
The way I learned to make tiles here in Spain is to taper each strip after the first glue-up. That is to say just before you glue up the log that the tiles get sliced from. Again, the taper can be perfect but if it isn’t the hot glue is forgiving like Stephen says. If you need to clean up and thickness the strips anyway (as I do) there is no extra work. If your strips come off perfectly from your saw then yes there is an extra step involved. What I am saying is that there is no upper limit to the size of a mosaic tile. On the other hand, a very small mosaic can be made with no taper and will still work because of the pressure, heat and moisture from the hot glue and the assembly process if you inlay everything at once as they do here. This link talks about it in a bit more detail. https://johnguitar.com/rosette-making/
Posts: 2888
Joined: Jan. 30 2007
From: London (the South of it), England
RE: rosette pattern size? (in reply to johnguitar)
So John,
from what I gather from your link. You're running each of the thin strips through that purfling strip tool to give the taper.
so after youve cut them on the bandsaw from the initial glued blocks?
so instead of cleaning those strips up and down to 0.5mm with say a champfered plane, you just do the clean up and taper at the same time in that tool/jig?
So what angle do you put on each strip? or I guess I'm interested to know what the width diff is from top to bottom of each strip..0.5mm at the top to 0.3?
Yes to everything. The difference in thickness is almost nothing but I can tell you the angle. Since there are 30 of these tiles in a full circle and 20 single strips in each tile "log" the angle of separation is 0.6º. That will change for you according to how thick your strips are but for 0.5mm that is about right.
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