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RE: Jerez 2019 - anyone going? (in reply to Goldwinghai)
To be honest I thought - why would you want to do that. A lot of expense for little return. If you have been to south-west Spain many times maybe you would want to extend your range, but there is a lot to see and do in this area. Have you looked at Donaña, heading north into Extremadura, Rhonda, to name a few?
And a thought. If you are going to visit Cadiz why not stay in El Puerto de Santa Maria? There's a boat across to the city that takes 20 mins. But El Puerto was the largest export port of sherry and the bull ring, the castle, the church, and the history show its importance. And its cheaper than Cadiz and better transport connected.
Sorry, turning into the tourist booard
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nigel (el raton de Watford - now Puerto de Santa Maria, Cadiz)
RE: Jerez 2019 - anyone going? (in reply to Goldwinghai)
Sorry, didn't want to scare you off! I could also tell a lot of heart-warming stories from Morocco. For your wife, the basics are just dressing modestly (won't matter here since we're in the winter months, but in summer it'd mean stuff like not wearing a sleeveless top for example), no smoking in the street (men can, women can't) and keeping PDA at a minimum. That'll go a long ways in reducing the likelihood of bad encounters.
If you want to go to a city and have zero hassle, here's what I'd recommend: book a room in a riad with good reviews. These are small establishments, usually no more than a dozen rooms (if even). Essentially guest houses. A riad is good because you have the opportunity to build a rapport with the owner, and, since they don't cater to that many people (especially not in the winter season...), you'll have their full attention and they're good at pointing you towards what's going on and what you might like to see (if you want to see some traditional Moroccan music, they'll point you to the right restaurant to go to, etc.). If you want an establishment where you can drink and smoke, they'll also know where to send you. If you want to meander the city or a souk off the tourist map, you can always get a guide (which a riad should be able to provide). Prices are much more affordable than you might imagine. The downside is that you might get carted around a bit, but the upside is that with a guide all the problems mentioned above just sort of vanish (The people who'd bother you if you were on your own know better than to screw with a working man's business). Of course, since you have to depend on others to a larger degree than you would normally, then the quality of your stay will depend on the quality of those people (I can say from experience that spending 10 days with a mountain guide who's a complete **** is no fun at all...). So if you do it that way my guess is that you won't have any trouble at all (of course that also means less "adventure"), but you do want to make sure to check the reviews and not just choose one on a hunch.
Oh yeah, if you go, take half a day to go to the hammam (preferably catering to locals, you'll have to go separately). European hammams are for pussies Seriously though, they have no idea how to do it in Spain. A Moroccan hammam is hardcore but you'll leave feeling 20 years younger.
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Posts: 221
Joined: Mar. 17 2015
From: Virginia USA
RE: Jerez 2019 - anyone going? (in reply to Goldwinghai)
Thanks to everyone for your comments. To Piwin and Escribano: We have been to France at least 6 times, many times to London, and also to many other European cities. This March trip will be our 6th time to Spain. From Seville we have visited Cordoba, Ronda, Jerez, and Granada twice. I think this will be our last vacation to Spain, at least for a while, and since Diluk had mentioned going to Morocco after Jerez, I put Morocco on my side-trip list. Plan to visit Malaga and Tarifa if we don’t go to Morocco. By the way, we will be in London the last three days of our trip. Any recommendations for Flamenco penas in Malaga?
RE: Jerez 2019 - anyone going? (in reply to Goldwinghai)
Well, we only went across to Tangier on a day trip from Algeciras. We hoped to be able to wander around for a while under our own steam but the purpose of the trip was clearly organised around bringing foreign money into the country. I don't blame them as it is very run down and was happy to sit through an endless presentation of carpets but the trip through the souk was as a high speed line of tourists being picked off by beggars and street salesmen. I felt extremely intrusive and although the traders were polite we were endured. As we walked outside the souk amongst the market traders from the mountains sitting amongst their produce, the women turned their heads away from us and covered their faces with their shawls. I'm pretty sure that wasn't islamic modesty.
Posts: 3446
Joined: Jan. 20 2004
From: Austin, Texas USA
RE: Jerez 2019 - anyone going? (in reply to Goldwinghai)
I have reported a number of minor annoyances experienced in Tangier, the only place I visited in Morocco. Weighing one very positive experience against these small annoyances leaves me glad that I visited.
But without that one positive experience, which I recounted years ago on the Foro, I would have retained a negative impression.
I have traveled a fair amount, much of it by myself. Impressions of various places depend strongly upon the experiences I have had. The opportunity for experience is to a large extent random. How opportunities turn out depends largely upon one's attitude.
For example: Last year we went to Yucatan. I noticed that by leaving a few days earlier, I could spend el Dia de los Muertos in Mexico City, while Larisa needed to keep working in USA.
One day I walked from my hotel in the Zocalo to the Diego Rivera museum west of the Alameda, about 1.5 km. At the west end of the Alameda I sat on a park bench. A decently dressed young man approached and sat on the opposite end of the bench. After a few minutes he asked me what time it was. After I told him, he started in on his con. I was a little surprised, to me he didn't look the part of a con man. I ignored him. He scooted toward me on the bench. I said, "No me acercas."
He ignored my warning until I showed him the hiking staff I carried, with a sharp steel point. Without another word, he got up and left.
I smiled to myself. At last my Mexico City experience seemed complete. I had been approached by a con man. I reminisced fondly upon past experiences with con men and my old friend Pat H., almost fifty years ago. Somehow we fell into the practice of amusing ourselves by pretending to go along with the scam until the opportunity occurred to maneuver the con man into a situation he perceived as dangerous to himself, causing him to abandon the scam and depart.
The brief contact with the con man last year was a positive experience for me, which might have turned out otherwise for someone else.
Not that I was always impervious to a good Mexico City con. I fell for the scam more than once. When I ended up angry and embarrassed, I would say to myself, "I should have seen that one coming."
Trips to Fez and Marrakesh remain on my bucket list, but they have never coincided at the tops of both my list and Larisa's. I think I would enjoy them much more with her than I would alone.
Traveling on the train from Machu Picchu back to Cuzco, we shared a table with a woman born in Alexandria, whose youth and early adulthood coincided with Durell's time there. Her father was Italian, her mother Lebanese. She said Durell had done pretty well capturing the ambience, from the viewpoint of an Englishman.
She had spent a career working for the United Nations, some of it in the USA, and had chosen Chile for retirement.
RNJ
She did well to get far away from Alexandria. I went there once for work and can confirm that it is a charmless dump.
Posts: 3467
Joined: Jul. 12 2009
From: Washington, DC
RE: Jerez 2019 - anyone going? (in reply to hamia)
quote:
She did well to get far away from Alexandria. I went there once for work and can confirm that it is a charmless dump.
Sic transit gloria mundi.
I had a Foreign Service colleague who was the American Consul General in Alexandria during the 1980s, and he described it much the same as you. But Alexandria in the 1930s, as Lawrence Durrell described it in "The Alexandria Quartet," was a very cosmopolitan city with an interesting mix of various nationalities and groups. I think Gamal Abdul Nasser's takeover of Egypt in 1952 led to its demise as an international city with his expulsion of foreigners and their influence.
Bill
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And the end of the fight is a tombstone white, With the name of the late deceased, And the epitaph drear, "A fool lies here, Who tried to hustle the East."
RE: Jerez 2019 - anyone going? (in reply to Goldwinghai)
Been fascinating reading everyone's posts here... thanks!
Re: my Morocco trip. I've booked flights to Jerez on March 2nd for two nights. Then I intend to get the ferry from Tarifa to Tanfier on Monday 4th March. Have return flight booked from Marrakech on 10th March. In between I intend to make my own way down to Marrakech or do the following tour with a guide. Cost is 1050 euros, and although expense, I'm tempted to just do it to save hassles. Any advice would be much appreciated!
Day 1: Tangier - Chefchaouen From the ferry or the airport in Tangier we pick you up and start to drive through the Rif mountains and Tetouan city to enjoy the views of the beautiful mountains of Morocco till we get to Chefchaouan one of the stunning villages in the feet of Rif mountains. Chefchaouen medina with it’s blue color become one of the best town to visit in Morocco, surrounded by many funky arts and crafts stores, roof-top restaurants and cafes. Over night in Chefchaoun Day 2 : Chefchaouen - Volubilis - Meknes - Fes
After breakfast in the riad our journey start towards Volubilis crossing several Rif villages. We stop in Volubilis to discover the Roman ruins and we learn about the Moroccan BC history, then we will drive to Meknes city (the 17 th century heritage) where we will stop for lunch. Afternoon is time to visit the historical sites of Medina such as Bab el Mansour, Moulay Ismail mausoleum. Later on we head to Fes city where we will spend the night. Day 3: Fes Sightseeing Today is for exploring the oldest city in Morocco, walking in its alleys and small streets. Our visit starts by visiting the Royal Palace gate, the Jewish head quarter, the first Mellah ever built in as well as the most interesting sites of Fes with a professional guide. Over night in Fes Day 4: Fes – Sahara Desert Merzouga Early morning we star the day towards the sahara from the Riad, crossing near the national park of Ifran « the switezland of Morocco » as it calls. To enjoyits beauty and to have a memoriable photos, a break will be taken. After that we will head towards Azrou to see the Barbary Apes/ monkeys in the cedar forest. We Continuing to Midelt for a lunch meal in a restaurant. By the afternoon, we will cross the pass of Tizi N Telghomt to reach Errachidia while admiring the views of Ziz gorges, which offers amazing photographic opportunities. Later on, we will have a stop in a panoramic view of Ziz valley. The drive continues to Erg Chebbi Dunes passing by Aoufous and Erfoud the capital of fossils, where you may want to visit a local fossil craft workshop. After that we will continue to the captivating dunes of Erg Chebbi. Arrive to the hotel and get ready for a camel ride for an hour and half to enjoy the sunset. Overnight and dinner in nomad tent camp site. Day 5 : Merzouga – Todgha gorges – Dades Valley If you wake up early enough, the Sahara desert offers an amazing sunrise. Afterwards, you’ll peacefully ride the camels back to your hotel in the edge of the dunes appreciate in the unique beauty of the spectacular Erg Chebbi dunes with first lights. After breakfast and
shower, we will leave towards Todra gorges well known as an important destination for rock climbers. The highest and narrow west gorges in Morocco, where we can do some walking before arriving to Dades Valley for dinner and accommodation. Day 6 : Dades valley – Marrakech We drive trough the valley of rouses to visit the world heritage site of Ait Ben Haddou, where we will stop for lunch. Afternoon we drive via the high atlas mountain crossing the pass of Tizi n Tichka to Marrakech
Posts: 221
Joined: Mar. 17 2015
From: Virginia USA
RE: Jerez 2019 - anyone going? (in reply to ddias)
Diluk, you are doing just what Rick Steves recommends in his travel book, hiring a private guide. Did you find the local guide on the net or through referral? Does the €1050 fee include the guide’s provided transportation? Please do a write up about your Morocco travel experience. Thanks.
RE: Jerez 2019 - anyone going? (in reply to ddias)
Whether you do it alone or with a guide, that itinerary looks really good. It goes through a good chunk of the most memorable places in the country for me.
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"Anything you do can be fixed. What you cannot fix is the perfection of a blank page. What you cannot fix is that pristine, unsullied whiteness of a screen or a page with nothing on it—because there’s nothing there to fix."
Posts: 3467
Joined: Jul. 12 2009
From: Washington, DC
RE: Jerez 2019 - anyone going? (in reply to henrym3483)
This trip to Morocco sounds great. It reminds me of an anecdote I heard years ago from a veteran of the WWII North African campaign.
Veteran: "Before the war Hassan's wife walked ten paces behind him. After the war Hassan's wife walked ten paces ahead of him. 'Ah,' I said to Hassan, 'this is progress.'"
Hassan: "Not progress. Land mines."
Bill
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And the end of the fight is a tombstone white, With the name of the late deceased, And the epitaph drear, "A fool lies here, Who tried to hustle the East."
RE: Jerez 2019 - anyone going? (in reply to Goldwinghai)
Hi - I don't land until that evening and will only be in town for 2 nights before i head to Tarifa to get the ferry for my morocco adventure... how about lunch on the sunday instead? No real plans other perhaps heading to the Pena and catching some off festival stuff. If the weather is really bad (like it was last year) I may well head to the Hammam on the sunday afternoon!
Posts: 898
Joined: Dec. 6 2012
From: Lisboa, Portugal
RE: Jerez 2019 - anyone going? (in reply to flyeogh)
Booked yesterday, I'll be in Jerez from the 6th to the 10th of March. On the 6th I'll be at La Guarida del Angel to see Tía Juana del Pipa and Diego del Morao. Saw this concert last year and it was great, don't miss it guys! See you there!