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... you drill pilot holes from the top surface. Then you turn it over and bore the tapered holes for the pegs from the back. It's not complicated if you use a drill press.
Just out of curiousity: How do you insure to get the headstock ( one time veneer side, one time back side ) laying accurately flat on the drill press base?
Will you support the heel side of the corpus, hoping for the headstock to end up plane ( Which I don´t suppose ), or vise / clamp the head firmly onto the drill base?
Just out of curiousity: How do you insure to get the headstock ( one time veneer side, one time back side ) laying accurately flat on the drill press base?
Will you support the heel side of the corpus, hoping for the headstock to end up plane ( Which I don´t suppose ), or vise / clamp the head firmly onto the drill base?
Ruphus
It doesn't have to lie flat. The drill press doesn't care. The pegs will all be on the same plane since the tapering is all done from the back side. This is pretty basic woodworking. I wish I hadn't mentioned it.
Yes, I understand that as decades go by, peg holes will "grow" a little and I realise that there will be cosmetic considerations to the veneer on the headstock as well. I have no idea how to make a tapered peg with a tuning button, but my idea was that the capstan part, where the string is wound onto, could possibly be kept to the original size of the original peg and this would maintain the accuracy of the tuning. Perhaps it is my lack of understanding of these issues.
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