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Did I sanded the bridge-bone to much??   You are logged in as Guest
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kozz

Posts: 1766
Joined: Feb. 26 2009
From: Eindhoven NL

Did I sanded the bridge-bone to much?? 
Hello,
I've sanded the bridge-bone (plastic actually) on my Alhambra 3F because the strings were to high from the soundboard. It was hard to hook the tumb in and to do an m-golpe above the strings.
At the same time I've also changed my strings.
Now a week later, the strings seems to be pretty stable, but it looks like I can't tune my guitar proper anymore. And if it sounds allright and I put the capo on, it is immediatly out of tune.

Has this to do with the sanding of the bridge-bone?
Is this what they call intonation?
Perhaps getting a new bridgebone offcourse will be necessary....are there guidelines for sanding the bridgebone to a certain height?

thanks
Remco
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date May 7 2009 6:46:26
 
michel

Posts: 315
Joined: Apr. 14 2008
From: france

RE: Did I sanded the bridge-bone to ... (in reply to kozz) 
quote:

Did I sanded the bridge-bone to much??


...not necessarily - sometimes when i change all the strings in one time and i don't play very much it takes a few days until the tuning is constant.
i've also sanded the bridge-bone of my alhambra 10F. i drew a precise coloured line of 1 or 2 mm with the pencil, this allowed me to control how much i've already sanded (sorry for my english i hope it is clear).
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date May 7 2009 7:04:14
 
Aadi

 

Posts: 28
Joined: Mar. 30 2009
 

RE: Did I sanded the bridge-bone to ... (in reply to kozz) 
Sounds like an intonation job. You can keep the saddle you have now, so long as the guitar is physically playable at that height, you just need to adjust the contact point of the strings on the saddle until they are in tune.

To do this, I place a short length of wire (a cutoff from an electric guitar G string actually) underneath one of the strings at the saddle so that the nylon string only touches the saddle at the wire--the wire is the contact point. Then I tune the string and use a strobe tuner to measure the correspondence between the string's 12th-fret harmonic and fretted note. You'll probably notice the fretted note is not in tune with the harmonic. If the fretted note is sharp, move the wire further back towards the tie block and repeat. If it's flat, move the wire forward towards the soundhole. When you find the spot where the fretted note and harmonic are the same, mark the wire's location on the saddle with a pencil. This is the point that the string must break over the saddle for it to be in tune. Repeat this procedure for the remaining strings, then file the saddle so that it has peaks at your pencil marks. When you're done, your guitar will be as harmonious as possible.

I find this pretty tedious but can't think of a better way to do it...
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date May 7 2009 7:40:33
 
kozz

Posts: 1766
Joined: Feb. 26 2009
From: Eindhoven NL

RE: Did I sanded the bridge-bone to ... (in reply to kozz) 
Looks indeed as a tedious job, but I'll give it a try....another learning moment to be carefull

Thanks
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date May 7 2009 8:36:50
 
kozz

Posts: 1766
Joined: Feb. 26 2009
From: Eindhoven NL

RE: Did I sanded the bridge-bone to ... (in reply to kozz) 
Eventually after thinking it over what a hell of job that would be I put a g-string underneath the nuthbone to higher it again and it worked. I leave it like this untill the next time I have to replace the strings
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date May 13 2009 8:43:25
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