RobF -> RE: Bogdanovich´s method for flamenco guitars (Apr. 24 2020 23:01:52)
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I think you may want to analyze your reasons for having the string holes very close to the soundboard before committing to the decision. I assume it’s to achieve a reasonable break angle, but in reality, something along the lines of 15 degrees is sufficient. There’s no practical need to go further. As a matter of fact, too much break angle just breaks strings. Maybe that’s why it’s called “break” angle, lol. The problem is if the holes are really close to the top and you drill straight across then you will have to do some serious undercutting to clear the holes on the saddle side. And, if you angle the holes upwards to reduce the undercutting then one has to question why the entry point at the back is so low to start with. What is being gained? It’s best to determine a placement that will allow sufficient wood under the tie block laminate to be practical both for tying the string, as well as having structural integrity. The holes should be high enough off the top to allow ease of access for your fingers, as well as not being so close that the top is at risk of damage every time a string is changed. Maybe 3mm for the bottom of the hole is a good starting point. With a 7mm tie block and, say, a 1.5mm bone insert, that will place the hole roughly between the bottom of the bridge and the bottom of the bone insert and will give about a 3mm space to thread the string underneath itself when tying. On the other side there will be a rise to the saddle of approximately 3mm or so, if the string height above the top is 8mm. If you want to increase break angle from that, consider moving the saddle slot towards the tie block, as opposed to lowering the holes. Just a thought. Some makers angle the hole towards the top on the saddle side to increase break angle, leaving the entry point at the back higher. To each their own, but it will increase the undercut, where a 12 hole bridge might be a better idea, if break angle is really such a concern (it isn’t, IMO). Angling it down like that could also lead to more string breakage. Just thinking out loud, so my numbers might be a tad off...as Ethan said in response to a different question, making a full size drawing isn’t a bad idea. *edit* come to think of it, I’ve also at times angled the holes downwards too, in order to follow the line of the tie block when I’ve done a low tie block with a forward slant. On those occasions, the reason is so that the holes will clear the tie block’s bone insert at the saddle side of the tie block more than to increase break angle. Forgot about that. The take-away here is to check the line of the holes from the side before drilling to ensure you have proper clearance.
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