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Posts: 597
Joined: Jan. 14 2007
From: York, England
Cutting Golpeadors
What's the best way to get really neat curved cuts on the clear plastic used for tap plates? I've been using scissors which is ok but not as neat as the golpeadors you see on factory made guitars.
The stuff I'm using is clear plastic 0.25 mm thick with an adhesive backing
Honestly, a lot of factory guitars inspected closely you see the same imperfections you find on handmade concert instruments. Just use scissors and be careful. The ONE golpeador I cut and put on, I simply traced the old one I removed. I noticed the original was far from perfect, but no one can tell. I think I cut my new one BETTER than the old one.
I installed golpeadors on one of my guitars. I used a Fiskar circle cutter for the soundhole area and a very sharp blade and a steel ruler for the straight edges. To round off the corners, I marked them with a edge of a penny and cut them carefully with a sharp scissors.
To minimize errors, I taped the golpeador material to my cutting pad when using the circle cutter. I also tested my pattern with regular paper before cutting the actual golpeador.
It turned out rather well. I inspected golpeadors on some other guitars and mine was better-fitting than most.
I have installed two of them, I took some measurments of an exsisting Golpeador from an instrument and then I used a French Curve to get the proper radius. Inorder to get a good clean "cut" after tracing the pattern on the material I used both a pair of sissors and an Exacto knife. I found the sissors to work best but I used the knife for cutting out the sound hole portion. When your installing it, make sure you square it up at the bridge and then slowly press it into place while working out any air bubbles. I've found that once it's pressed on the top, it won't come off... easily... Sig--
I've found that once it's pressed on the top, it won't come off... easily... Sig--
Actually its much easier than most people think to get these things off. You use a hairdryer and gently heat and pull starting at a corner. If you use the minimum heat you won't damage the finish.
If its only just been stuck down, you'll get all the glue off as well, but if its been on a while lots of glue will be left behind. This can then be removed with lighter fluid.
I've found that once it's pressed on the top, it won't come off... easily... Sig--
Actually its much easier than most people think to get these things off. You use a hairdryer and gently heat and pull starting at a corner. If you use the minimum heat you won't damage the finish.
If its only just been stuck down, you'll get all the glue off as well, but if its been on a while lots of glue will be left behind. This can then be removed with lighter fluid.
To answer the original question ... after you cut it out carefully then smooth the edges with 400 grit silicon carbide paper before removing the backing. Be sure to stay on the edges and off the top. You can finish it off with 600 grit if you want a nicer finish edge. Use the SC paper either wet or dry.
No! What happens? I guess you're telling me it doesn't work on shellac?
It depends on the adhesive and how long the plate has been on. I really messed up the spruce top on a french polished flamenco removing the plate. I never use heat ... my opinion ... HEAT AND FINE GUITAR TOPS DON'T MEET AS FRIENDS! You may damage the finish, cause the top to crack, or loosen braces none of which is desirable.
I use some real sharp scissors that my wife uses doing embroidery - she's probably ******ed of but I can't really tell - she seems to reach that point on a daily basis when I steal some oxygen that she could have breathed.
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