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I'm looking to visit Sevilla during the Feria de Abril. I don't know fully what to expect, however, I suspect that due to its popularity with tourists, much of it will be dedicated to Sevillanas and relatively "light" forms.
I have been interested in cante for a few decades now, and I'm looking for access to real juergas. The Saetas will probably be open to the public. I'm wondering if, beyond these events, I could get access to the more "underground" events and peñas, where they sing cante jondo.
Fairs are noisy and fun, like amusement parks, and people don’t sing soleás, siguiriyas, malagueñas, etc. Fandangos is probably the closest thing to “serious” singing you’ll find. Plenty of bulerías, though, and tangos, alegrías, etc. in addition to sevillanas and other “lighter” styles. It's not because of tourism but because people want to have fun and there's a lot of noise.
But you should know that most or all of the casetas are private and you have to be a member or invited to go inside. Here’s a link to show you what casetas look like. There’s nothing but canvas and air separating them, and there’s always a lot of noise coming from adjacent casetas: recorded and live music, people talking and shouting, etc. If you want to hear real singing, go to peñas (which are usually closed when fairs are happening), make friends and go to parties with them.
I recommend the fair in Jerez de la Frontera (Feria del Caballo). All the casetas are open to the public, and I've heard that they're regularly inspected by civil servants (government employees). Big fines are issued for infractions such as refusal to allow entry, abusive prices for food and drink, unsanitary conditions, etc. The fairgrounds still get pretty dirty and disgusting every night, but you probably know what I mean.
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