Welcome to one of the most active flamenco sites on the Internet. Guests can read most posts but if you want to participate click here to register.
This site is dedicated to the memory of Paco de Lucía, Ron Mitchell, Guy Williams, Linda Elvira, Philip John Lee, Craig Eros, Ben Woods, David Serva and Tom Blackshear who went ahead of us.
We receive 12,200 visitors a month from 200 countries and 1.7 million page impressions a year. To advertise on this site please contact us.
Hello, In the past I used solid linings, but I'd like to try tentellones in my future build. I want to ask - is it possible to glue tentellones with titebond, since there's no way to clamp the joint? I understand traditionally it's done with hot hide glue due to its "self clamping" properties. Would the joint glued with titebond hold?
RE: Tentellones and titebond (in reply to kominak)
Can I ask why you want to change to Tentellones when a solid lining seems to project sound back into the top rather than lose some of its power into the sides of the guitar?
I used kerfed lining for years and only found this effective technique when I started building the Miguel Rodriguez classical guitar with its 2 part solid laminate lining for the top function.
This technique raises the frequency and clarity a little and projects tone back into the top for better projection, IMHO.
RE: Tentellones and titebond (in reply to Tom Blackshear)
Tom, I'd like to try something different, I guess. The guitar I built with solid lining seem to project very good and is noticeably louder compared to similar guitars - but that may be only my feeling and solid lining may be only a part of the reason. I have a feeling that the tone is "too clean" for my taste and that by using solid lining I'm loosing some of the character I associate with flamenco guitars (similar to using stiffer sides). Keep in mind please that all of this is pure speculation on my part and I have no data nor enough experience to back it up :)
RE: Tentellones and titebond (in reply to printer2)
quote:
ORIGINAL: printer2
So how long do you have to hold the tentellone in place before you can release it?
Assuming the sides and top are held tightly in place you don't need to hold the tentellone at all, just place it and wait for the glue to dry. If you use a solera to dome the top you should put a slight bevel on the tentellone so it mates to the top properly. I've found a 2 degree bevel works well with our guitars.
RE: Tentellones and titebond (in reply to jshelton5040)
quote:
Assuming the sides and top are held tightly in place you don't need to hold the tentellone at all, just place it and wait for the glue to dry. If you use a solera to dome the top you should put a slight bevel on the tentellone so it mates to the top properly. I've found a 2 degree bevel works well with our guitars.
Just used to hearing from the glue people they want a certain clamping force on the mating parts. Having the right bevel seems like an important detail. I would guess because of the greater area of wood back and sides as compared to the tentellone the moisture gets sucked out of the glue and the tentellone gets snugged up. Will have to try it on a build one day. Lately have not been bothering with a mold.
RE: Tentellones and titebond (in reply to kominak)
The trickiest part about tentellones is getting them to not tip away from the side. If you achieve that then almost any glue will work. I do hold mine for about 15 seconds (maybe just superstition ). On my solera it usually works fine if the tentellone's back and bottom are perfectly square. But occasionally I've had to bevel some slightly to stay snug.
Printable Version
). 
New Messages
No New Messages
Hot Topic w/ New Messages
Hot Topic w/o New Messages
Locked w/ New Messages
Locked w/o New Messages
Post New Thread