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Now, here's a subject that's sure to open up a discussion!
The shape of the fingerboard, there are lots of different options, flat, tapering bass, tapering from 12th fret, hollow propeller shape.... and so on! so which do we choose????
What I am tending to use is a small taper running from the nut to the 12th fret, then after the 12th fret the fingerboard falls away a little more.
doing this means that you can get your difference in string heights (say 3.2-2.7) without having to make the saddle much higher on the bass side.
Come one fellow Luthiers, What are your ideas on this? what shapes are you using?
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Finn Liengaard
Maker of fine handmade Classical and Flamenco guitars.
The bass side is made slightly thinner, maybe 0.5-1.mm, so it's basically very slightly angled when looking from the bridge to the nut
and slight curvature at 1-6th frets allows for a bit less fret buzz as that's where the worst buzzing happens. when using a straightedge the curvature allows a piece of paper between the 1-5 frets.
Some curvature before installing frets is a good idea especially on thick necks which dont bend from string tension.