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I'm visiting Granada in June and staying in Sacromonte - the guides all say to avoid the 'caves' where they host flamenco shows as tourist traps - anyone know where I could find the real thing cheers
Posts: 1827
Joined: Jul. 8 2003
From: Living in Granada, Andalucía
RE: Visiting Granada in June - is th... (in reply to dexter)
Flamenco in Granada.
This is part of a post which I wrote for flamenco dancer talking about flamenco in Granada. I've lived here for 6 years and work with flamencos, ha ha yes real ones, many of whom work in the tablaos. Sorry I wont be here in June but am going to the States for amonth. Anyway hope you have good time and here are some ideas.
On Thursday night the Peña in Granada is open to the public and worth a visit to see who is appearing, but its worth going to the peña anyway to eat and sit on the terrace and simply find out what's going on. Some saturday nights are open to the public as well.
I think the caves are definitely worth a visit just to experience the Zambra and because many of Granada's flamencos earn a living there. I am surprised the guides say to avoid them, most hotels take parties of tourists to them and if you ask me the rip off is by the guides/hotels who charge a fortunesimply to take people on the pretense of protecting them from unscripulous flamenco promtoers !!! If you are ripped off it may be over the price of the sherry but not the flamenco show. I recommednd, La Venta del Gallo in the heart of the Sacromonte, owned by our friend Juanillo. I went when my friend EL Niño de las Almendras performed there and the first show was their regular Zambra performance and I was pleasantly surprised at how much I enjoyed it. You'll often find Jaime El Parrón singing there. The other is the Reina Mora at Mirador San Cristobal, where Ana Calí dances. Also the Tarantos where many friends such as Juanito and Victor perform regularly. Later at night its worth checking out the bar 'La Bulería' and hoping to get locked in after closing. Also check out La cueva del Curro, he often arranges private flamenco nights with some of the more well known performers. Last I heard Marina Heredía was performing there.
Apart from that it is worth checking out the tourist office in case there is flamenco at the main theatre, Isabel Catolica and also Teatro Alhambra, which has the wonderful series ' Flamenco viene del Sur' and has enabled us to see people like ' La Susi' 'Tomasito' "Tomatito" and more.
Then there are the smaller clubs. One is called The Upsetter on the River Darro in the Albaicin, small, cramped, smokey but you can catch El Niño de las Almendras there, or Jaime 'El Parrón' or my friend Pilar dancing with Marcos on guitar ( both teachers at the Carmen Las Cuevas). They are good at advertising and there are always posters all over the place. Another is the Eshavira, my second home, again, cramped, smokey, late shows. Its to be found between Calle Elvira and Gran Via down a small alleyway, La Cuna de Postigo, if you find Hotel Athenas on Gran via go up the side of it and take a left down into what looks to be a building site. If in doubt ask. Shows are on late Sunday night, get there for 11 to get a good seat and dont move till midnight. They also have jazz on weds nights.
Another delightful flamenco place is the Peña de Socios owned and ran by El Niño de las Almendras in the Albayzin, at the bottom of Calle de la Tiña, it opens around 2 to 3 am on Saturday nights and is a wild experience, a New York friend of mine said he felt like Alice falling down the rabbit hole.
RE: Visiting Granada in June - is th... (in reply to dexter)
Kate, many thanks for your response to dexter. I'm looking for a house near Granada with my Sevillana Pilar and so will be visiting frequently (I hope) over the next year or so. Your info will make a world of difference.
It is strange how this tag "tourist traps" gets tagged to certain places. It is true that there are many people willing to exploit tourists but equally many who feel associated, and thus knowleagable, who feel that good artists should suffer in poverty if they are to be rated genuine. It is a hard and a real world in spain for the young looking for jobs and a future. Wanting to earn euros does not necessarily make you crap at flamenco or anything else.
Dexter, I'm sure you realise that I'm not relating this to your request for info. I hope you enjoy your visit (you lucky fellow) and would ask that you let us know all, the good and the bad. I for one would be very gratefull.
_____________________________
nigel (el raton de Watford - now Puerto de Santa Maria, Cadiz)
Posts: 1827
Joined: Jul. 8 2003
From: Living in Granada, Andalucía
RE: Visiting Granada in June - is th... (in reply to flyeogh)
quote:
ORIGINAL: flyeogh I'm looking for a house near Granada with my Sevillana Pilar and so will be visiting frequently (I hope) over the next year or so. Your info will make a world of difference.
Hey am sure we'll meet up some time. Good luck with house hunt.
quote:
It is a hard and a real world in spain for the young looking for jobs and a future. Wanting to earn euros does not necessarily make you crap at flamenco or anything else.
Not just the young, my friend El Niño is over seventy . If anything the rip off is that the artists are paid very little and the fact that they have to do so many shows a night may make it a little stale, but the flamenco is genuine enough and so is the ambience.
Posts: 1827
Joined: Jul. 8 2003
From: Living in Granada, Andalucía
RE: Visiting Granada in June - is th... (in reply to dexter)
I was just reading this month's Alma100 and realised I had forgot to mention the annual Festival de Musica y Danza in Granada. Its in June so you are in luck, lots of flamenco not only in the theatres ( Maria Pages, Chao Domingez Esperanza Fernandez )but also 'trasnoches' late night venues. http://www.granadafestival.org/
There is also a whole programme of flamenco at La Chumbera, the Centre for Gypsy Studies, in the Sacromonte. You cant miss it, the big building with the very large window.
So its a very good time to come. Its really hot though and a real slog walking up the Sacromonte. ( I know as I just did it earlier and even a gazpacho and two ice cold vinos have not cooled me down )
We're in the middle of Fería now, a week of wild Sevillanas and all night parties. Also a good time to come and see Granada strut its stuff. Town is empty, everyone is at the Feria. Kate
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