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Posts: 298
Joined: Jan. 19 2011
From: The Netherlands
pegs
I did a quick search but I couldn't find the answer I hoping to get.
I know viola pegs are prefered, but they sell pegs in alot of different diameters, the smallest (i could find) is around 8.8 mm mm thick and the turning knob, are these the prefered once, or should I look for even smaller ones?
also anyone have any experience with different materials? ebony, rosewood, boxwood??
I wont use rosewood pegs bacause I dont like the look of indian rosewood, so its either ebony or boxwood for me, I like the boxwood pegs look, and they had a great deal at the ''companywhosnamewecannotpost '' for 0.70 eurocents each
anyone have any experience with this one?? its the most affordable since I also need to invest in a quality reamer, also this way I can match the peg to the reamed hole.
the taper is usually 1:30. You will need a shaver to get the pegs round and take them down to the thickness you want at the end (about 7 mm usually) This is the kind of shaver I would recommend, not sure where it's available in Europe
I agree with Andy on the adjustable shaver. I use this very one and it is great. You can size the pegs from cello size to 1/2 size violin. 1:30 is my favorite. I make my own pegs for cejillas and have gone to very hard woods all local. I am now making a set of flamenco guitar pegs from Oregon Manzanita all with hand tools. Oregon Manzanita is not quite as hard as ebony and a bit less than our local Mountain Mahogany which rivals ebony for hardness. Another consideration is what are you using for the peg head. I would advise either put inserts of hard walnut, maple, etc., or make the head with a different wood than the softer neck. Also practice with the shaver on inexpensive pegs before messing with expensive pegs.
Ill have a look around for that adjustable shaver, the usd to euro rate is pretty good so I dont think it will be a problem to order from the usa, else i think ill go with the one offered in germany. I know herdim from several tools (rasps and mini planes), and they always seem to deliver great tools.
If I remember correct Anders sayd he tryd both inserts and no inserts and didnt find the need for inserts, I guess it also depends how well the pegs fit etc.
so what about the materials ebony vs rosewood vs boxwood, any thoughts on that? any pros or cons between them? besides possibly weight.
I prefer ebony because of the hardness and density. Rosewood is more porous and doesn't finish up as well in my opinion. Boxwood is great and a bit softer and may wear quicker than ebony, but if you are buying factory made pegs, then they are easily replaced. If your peghead is cedar, then I find it will wear a bit fast. If you veneer the front and back of the peghead with a very hard wood, then many find this works well. I think using a harder wood for the peghead or using inserts from the start, will eliminate problems down the road. I would suggest choosing the pegs that appeal to you most. In any case fitting the pegs where they have even contact all the way around in the peghead is advised. The method I have used is to drill all 6 holes. Taper the first hole and shave the peg to your liking. Then using this same peg taper the remaining holes for the same fit. Then fit each remaining peg carefully. This way all pegs fit the same and look and function nice.
No choice is perfect, ebony is harder and wears better but also shrinks over time no matter how old it is to an oval shape causing tuning problems. I'd say go with what you find the most attractive as none function perfectly forever the same as anything in life lol.
6.5- 7mm string end. Ya good Euro Boxwood isn't cheap, I usually see it sold in twisted little logs and its usually sold by the pound. There is something called Castello Boxwood not a true Boxwood it comes in larger boards looks more like fumed Boxwood when exposed to light. I think this South American wood is what some may be using, its hard enough has less defects in the lumber, is a lot cheaper but it doesn't carve as well.
if I use a peg thats say 7 mm at the string end, do you drill the hole at 6 mm? and ream the last bit, I guess the answer is obvious but cant hurt to ask :D
if I use a peg thats say 7 mm at the string end, do you drill the hole at 6 mm? and ream the last bit, I guess the answer is obvious but cant hurt to ask :D
Just drill your holes big enough for the end of the reamer to get in. I use a 1/4" drill (about 6.25 mm) but you could probably start a little smaller.
btw you can make a little jig out of a wood block with a hole reamed in it, and another hole on center at the end for drilling your string holes in the pegs on a drill press.
Gimar, Practice on scrap several times before you ream your peg head. The thing you want to practice is reaming straight in both the side to side direction and the up and down direction. When you are reaming a single hole on a guitar head as opposed to a double sided pegbox like a lute or violin, you can get off center much easier.
Your pegs will look better if you try a few first on another piece of wood. that way you can get used to the pull and cut of the reamer. The weight of your arm and spin direction will try to pull the ream off center if you don't pay attention.
Yes Pear is a good choice for pegs it doesn't have the shrinkage problem like ebony, it stays much rounder but I never see pre made Pear pegs for sale.
Hopefully you have a drill press for drilling the holes, nothing worse then having them pointing in different directions. Don't use to small a bit, the less material you need to remove with the reamer the better, less chance of things wondering on you.
thanks for the tip, Sean, i do have a drillpress, so that should make things more easy...
come to think of it, anyone ever tryd putting the reamer in a drill press to keep it square to the headstock. probally much safer to just practice with it bu hand though
Yes the only way I have fit pegs is with a reamer in the drillpress. just have to make sure all the pegs are exactly the same then you can set the drill press to only go so far then there you have it. perfection with ease!
What type of reamer do you use Steven and what speed with the drill press? I probably wouldn't use the spiral type in a drill press, with speed I picture it pulling itself into the headstock a little to aggressively tearing wood out. I have the other style smooth one side bladed the other.
What type of reamer do you use Steven and what speed with the drill press? I probably wouldn't use the spiral type in a drill press, with speed I picture it pulling itself into the headstock a little to aggressively tearing wood out. I have the other style smooth one side bladed the other.
I have one of those smooth one side bladed the other but it's too slow. I use one from LMII in the drill press and it works perfectly.
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