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I need to decide if I´m going to even out the width of the sides, so that I don´t need to adjust the neck angle. Or if I´m going with the width differences and need to figure out how to do the adjustment. I´d like to keep the width differences, but don´t know what to do with the neck.
I have pre-bent rosewood sides from LMI, and the neck is almost done, already cut side inserts.
I plan to have a flat top and the back slightly curved.
And it´s my first build, so some advice would be much appreciated.
I need to decide if I´m going to even out the width of the sides, so that I don´t need to adjust the neck angle. Or if I´m going with the width differences and need to figure out how to do the adjustment. I´d like to keep the width differences, but don´t know what to do with the neck.
I have pre-bent rosewood sides from LMI, and the neck is almost done, already cut side inserts.
I plan to have a flat top and the back slightly curved.
And it´s my first build, so some advice would be much appreciated.
Janne, I suggest you try to find a luthier to talk to in person. It sounds like you need a better understanding of what you're trying to do.
What I'm assuming from your post is that you plan to taper the sides from the neck to the end block (deeper at the end block). This is fine but understand that the tapering is done to the back edge of the sides and the top edge is left straight. Neck angle really has nothing to do with the sides it is accomplished by swinging the head end of the neck neck upward slightly (if you are holding he guitar it swings away from you). This is locked into position when the back is glued on.
As John said the taper of the instrument is mainly done on the back alone. Sometimes you see a raised neck but I dont think you want to worry about that. I always find that doing a full scale drawing will help you figured out what it what. If you do Start with the string and make all your measurements from that.
considering that, there should be a top and a back side on the sides I got from LMI, with the extra width on the backside. And if I attach the neck in a 90 angle to the top side of the sides, then it should be ok, assuming that LMI made the angle of width on the backside.
There are no luthiers nearby so I have to figure these things out by my self. I have the O´Brian DVD and it´s really helpful, and simple to follow, but in this case he has the same width to the sides throughout.
You will be assuming wrongly if you proceed in such a way and most probably will end up with a guitar that can't be set up properly. This is the most important step in the building process when making a flamenco guitar so please do yourself a huge favour search this site as the topic has been covered in past discussions. Draw it out full scale until you're 100% positive you understand it fully.
Also note if you build a flat top with no neck angle you will be able to set the string action over the frets low but the string height over the soundboard will end up way to high.
If I remember rightly the less doming of the top the more neck angle you need. as you put the guitar together the neck angle should be set into the mold you are using. The actual angle is secured when you glue the back on.
So, what do I do when I have the neck, endblock and kerfling in place, having the back braces placed in slots to the side kerfling and getting ready to form the back braces, back kerfling and heel to give the back a slighty rounded form, AND I want to have a slight angle to the neck? What do I do?
Have a solera built to give the angle to the neck, or can I do without (I have a solera kind of thing that is all straight)? Do I tilt the neck slightly forwards to get the angle? Doesn´t that affect the form of the sides in the back?
So, what do I do when I have the neck, endblock and kerfling in place, having the back braces placed in slots to the side kerfling and getting ready to form the back braces, back kerfling and heel to give the back a slighty rounded form, AND I want to have a slight angle to the neck? What do I do?
Have a solera built to give the angle to the neck, or can I do without (I have a solera kind of thing that is all straight)? Do I tilt the neck slightly forwards to get the angle? Doesn´t that affect the form of the sides in the back?
You must cut a taper in the bottom of the foot from the heel to the toe when you rough out the neck to allow the back to arch from end to end. Side to side is done by carving an arch in the back braces. You can roughly set the arch by putting the braces in place and using a flexible ruler or thin piece of wood to check the arch for flat spots. Once the braces are glued to the back you dry fit the back and make adjustments by planing the sides and foot until the back has the arch you want. It can be rather time consuming.
Setting the neck angle affects the sides, top and back. That's why it's advantageous to have forms to hold the body and neck in their proper shape and alignment during assembly.
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