Welcome to one of the most active flamenco sites on the Internet. Guests can read most posts but if you want to participate click here to register.
This site is dedicated to the memory of Paco de Lucía, Ron Mitchell, Guy Williams, Linda Elvira, Philip John Lee, Craig Eros, Ben Woods, David Serva and Tom Blackshear who went ahead of us.
We receive 12,200 visitors a month from 200 countries and 1.7 million page impressions a year. To advertise on this site please contact us.
|
|
Flamenco Bridge vs. Classical Bridge
|
You are logged in as Guest
|
Users viewing this topic: none
|
|
Login | |
|
Guest
|
RE: Flamenco Bridge vs. Classical Bridge (in reply to crowduck)
|
|
|
Hi everyone This is not some kind of correction to what has been said until now, but a different aproach, and in the end the result is the same. But this might give some more understanding. I play quite a lot, and when I worked in a shop I had the possibility to listen to a lot of arguments about stringheight above soundboard. I totally aree with Aarons observation abouth the neck setting in. The flamenco guitars I´ve build have all settled 1 - 1 1/2 mm lower at the bridge after a couple of days or so. Bear that in mind. (I had to refret and replane the fingerboard on one!!) So what is it we are looking for? Low action above SB. Why? Most people say because of the golpes, and yes it´s true, it´s easyer with low action. BUT the main reason is the whole handposition. With a lower action, you get your thumb in contact with the soundboard most of the time. This gives you a flatter thumb angle playing rasgueados. You touch the SB and the string at the same time at a flatter angle, making the rasgueados easyer, and the following thumb reststroke (In a Soleá fx) a lot easyer. It also gives you the posibility to rest the thumb on the SB above the strings playing picados, and thus adding a whole lotta strength to your picados. (not bad!!!) So what is important? Stringheight above SB at the bridge? NO!!! We do not play there. What is important is stringheight above SB close to the soundhole, where the thumb is resting. And here´s the problem. Some builders dome their SB a lot and makes the lower harmonic bar flat. This does that the strings are not parrallel to the SB. You might have 8mm height at the bridge and 11mm at the soundhole. That´s not acceptable, your thumb easily slips underneath the string, and players who have learnt to play a correctly setup guitar will reject this one. Never mind the sound!!!! Because their tecnique doesn´t funcion. I try to make my guitars with the strings as parrallel as possible. No more than 1 mm difference. This by arching the lower harmonic bar in Romanillos style, and not giving the SB to much of a dome (2mm) My favorite guitar is 7mm stringheight at the bridge and 8mm at the soundhole. It´s difficult to be that precise, but it´s wonderfull to play. The breakangle at the bridge is not to big a problem if you make a 12 hole tieblock. It increases the breakangle a lot and 30 - 40 degr. should not be a problem. So go ahead, build and show us. Good luck Anders
|
|
|
REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |
Date Aug. 13 2004 7:59:26
|
|
esteban63
Posts: 3
Joined: Jul. 13 2004
|
RE: Flamenco Bridge vs. Classical Bridge (in reply to crowduck)
|
|
|
Chris, About the guitars geometry: I might be helpful to draw the geometry on a long peice of paper. Get a good ruler, straight yardstick, sharp hard pencil and begin by making a horizontal line 3' long. Use that line as the string seen from the side of the guitar. Decide on a scale length. Experiment by measuring down from that line the distance you want your action to be from the fingerboard, soundboard at the bridge, and at the nut. Draw in the profile of the bridge and saddle, the fingerboard, etc and see how it all lines up. Mark where the soundhole is, etc. In other words work the geometry out on paper and then you will begin to see the relationships more clearly. Don't forget to compensate the saddle by moving it back about a 10th of a inch from the end of the scale length. Take a guitar you already have, measure the action and then make a drawing of it. Some of the great guitarmakers do this a kind of drawing to work it our ahead of time. So far, I have not seen any guitar plans that work it out as well as you ca draw it. We could throw numbers at you all day, but until you see it for yourself, it may just confuse you. I hope that helps and let us know how you are doing. Stephen
|
|
|
REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |
Date Aug. 14 2004 17:48:02
|
|
Guest
|
RE: Flamenco Bridge vs. Classical Bridge (in reply to esteban63)
|
|
|
Esteban63, Sorry for the late reply, but I´ve been away on hollydays. I think that the easyest way to answer your 12 hole tieblock question is to send you to www.schrammguitars.com There you´ll find a nice little article with fotos about the tie block. I dont know if I´ve noticed difference in stringtension, but since I want a appr. 88mm stringheight over the SB near bridge, it helps me having a correct breakangle. It also looks neat IMHO
|
|
|
REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |
Date Sep. 5 2004 8:05:47
|
|
New Messages |
No New Messages |
Hot Topic w/ New Messages |
Hot Topic w/o New Messages |
Locked w/ New Messages |
Locked w/o New Messages |
|
Post New Thread
Reply to Message
Post New Poll
Submit Vote
Delete My Own Post
Delete My Own Thread
Rate Posts
|
|
|
Forum Software powered by ASP Playground Advanced Edition 2.0.5
Copyright © 2000 - 2003 ASPPlayground.NET |
0.09375 secs.
|