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ORIGINAL: estebanana

For whomever wanted to see where the bridge goes in relation to braces

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ORIGINAL: estebanana

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The 670mm has a baby fret and therefore an enormous space between bridge and hole, and the 650mm guitar has an enormous 19th fret on which I could play the note on the G string whose name I dont’ even KNOW!!

Ricardo

I think that note is a D

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ORIGINAL: ernandez R

Cat looks great. Put our old ause shepherd down and havnt dared replace him, my copilot would like a cat but I'm thinking somthing to chaise moose out of the yard.

HR

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ORIGINAL: Richard Jernigan

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ORIGINAL: ernandez R

Cat looks great. Put our old ause shepherd down and havnt dared replace him, my copilot would like a cat but I'm thinking somthing to chaise moose out of the yard.

HR

Sorry to hear about your dog.

It is fairly well known that the duly elected Mayor of Talkeetna was a cat for several years. Fairly recently that cat died. When I was there last winter the guy who owns the rental log cabins across the road from you said he ran his dog for mayor, but another cat won.

I met the new Mayor. I was out walking. He followed me to the general store, and waited for me out on the porch. Since he was a politician, I figured he would ask for a handout when I came back out. The storekeeper suggested Vienna sausage. His Honor seemed satisfied, and went off to collect taxes from other constituents.

I don't know about moose, but my 18-pound black tomcat kept the cows out of our yard when we lived in the country, including a fairly imposing looking Hereford bull. Black Bart would ruffle up his fur, stick his tail straight up, and stride straight at the bull, hissing, spitting and snarling. The bull would turn tail and trot back out into the pasture where he belonged.

Bart and his harem suppressed the rattlesnake population too.

RNJ

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Hero

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Ok I see your post- long day in the shop, exhausted, I’ll reply mid day tomorrow, which in your reality is tomorrow’s tomorrow.

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ORIGINAL: JasonM

Well here was an example that looked like Fido’s butt. you can see how the white lines are not even, even though the veneer orders where the same. Disregard the jagged-ness That’s an artifact from downsizing the picture quality for the foro.

I had watched your great YouTube video series on sticker making. I bundled up all my lines and fit them in the channel like you do, but the inner most ring was especially tricky with the tighter radius. Maybe I made things too tight of a fit and that was the problem, plus just lack of experience. I remember getting inpatient fiddling with dry runs, said f it, and just broke out the glue hoping for the best. Then of course, later just routing it all out when reality set in. But, I basically placed the veneers in the channel little by little, paying attention to keep them in order and even.



Starting over and using the bending with the iron to pre bend.

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ORIGINAL: estebanana

About the compressed lines-

A few things, the channel on the inside or outside could be a fraction of a mm narrower just because of slop in the compass cutter system you rigged up. Mine gets sloppy over time because the hole for the registration pin ( in my case a drill bit) gets bigger from being spun so many times. After five years I noticed it was allowing the router to spin off center by a fraction of a mm. so I relocated the registration hole in the router base and drilled it again so the fit was tight again. It can make a difference.

A trick to when inlaying veneer lines is to lay them flat on a hard surface and 'squeegee' motion over them with a hard tool surface. I use a rounded over scraper blade, you want hold the end of the veneer strip with your finger, and run the scraper or other hard smooth tool over them to compress them down. Flip it over and compress it down again with fairly hard pressure. It will compress a .020 thick veneer line down to .018 or less, and if you do that to all the strips on the inside and outside channels you'll gain enough space to have an easier fitting bundle of lines. Then when you wash in with thin hide glue the veneer lines with puff up and expand o take up the slack space in the channel. I also put white glue in the bottom of the channel once I'm pretty certain the veneer line bundle is going to go in without distorting.

My way is I think quite primitive compared to the sophisticated ways it can be done, but I like more simple line rosettes and they can be made more complex via this method. In the pipeline now, after this duo is finished is a Brazilian /Spruce classical that's going be a bit more fancy. I'm going to make a more complete rosette with inner and outer arrow lines and a center tile ring. More in line with a classic rosette mixed between a Hauser and Santos design. I've been interested in the kind of flecha / braid patterns Hauser often uses on the outer a inner rings.

Sorry about that video, it really needs to be updated and reedited. It's been 8 years and I think it needs to be revamped.

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Stephen,

I like to case harden the top before drilling my rosette index hole with whatever is handy, alphatic or ca, drill the hole, and if I feel the need I'll coat the hole a second time.

I must confess I used a router twice but never come to terms with the processe. I've just used my home made circle slicer and chiseled out the groove. I like the processes and how it tells me much about the grain. I do understand how the router allows your processe to move along gluing, then routing again and the precision it affords.

I'm still just inserting rings of vaneer or colored paper and have yet to tackle tiles and all they intail.

I'll be trying your compression idea next goaround.

HR

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A trick to when inlaying veneer lines is to lay them flat on a hard surface and 'squeegee' motion over them with a hard tool surface. I use a rounded over scraper blade, you want hold the end of the veneer strip with your finger, and run the scraper or other hard smooth tool over them to compress them down. Flip it over and compress it down again with fairly hard pressure. It will compress a .020 thick veneer line down to .018 or less, and if you do that to all the strips on the inside and outside channels you'll gain enough space to have an easier fitting bundle of lines. Then when you wash in with thin hide glue the veneer lines with puff up and expand o take up the slack space in the channel. I also put white glue in the bottom of the channel once I'm pretty certain the veneer line bundle is going to go in without distortin

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This is a great trick!

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ORIGINAL: estebanana

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Stephen,

I like to case harden the top before drilling my rosette index hole with whatever is handy, alphatic or ca, drill the hole, and if I feel the need I'll coat the hole a second time.

I must confess I used a router twice but never come to terms with the processe. I've just used my home made circle slicer and chiseled out the groove. I like the processes and how it tells me much about the grain. I do understand how the router allows your processe to move along gluing, then routing again and the precision it affords.

I'm still just inserting rings of vaneer or colored paper and have yet to tackle tiles and all they intail.

I'll be trying your compression idea next goaround.

HR

Now you see here young man, this thread isn't going anywhere until you spell check this post.
We didn't raise you to run with guitar making scum and spell poorly.
\\Go to your room! Posthaste.

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I joked on another thread that I was kicked out of the Delcamp because of my pour spelling. The spell check on the foro editor is not considerate of my shortcomings. Typically I type in the notepad editor if it is longer then a sentence or two, mostly a habit born of many lost posts but also a way for me to self edit for clarity. Also I'm lazy in the late PM, a few glasses of wine, etc and I neglect to reread what I have typed.