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Fret leveling
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ernandez R
Posts: 737
Joined: Mar. 25 2019
From: Alaska USA
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RE: Fret leveling (in reply to Stu)
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Stu, Eight guitars in and I'm still struggling for the perfect fret job. Can't say I've had one go from bad to worse though ;) Is it one area where the frets are starting to buzz? A few things I had to learn along the way: - getting the fret slot just the right width so the frets tap in without bending the fret past its limit of elasticity is vital. Test the fret wire with your fingers to get an idea about how much it will flex before stretching the tang. - I use a small plastic dead blow hammer taking care to keep the head perfectly parallel with the fretboard face. One blow at a time, rest a second, then again. It's not a race. Helpful to place the hammer head flat in the fretboard then space your body so you can lock your elbow on your side so when you lift the hammer head and swing it hits at the exact place and angle. I adjust my elbow a few times per fret. -if you bend the fret upwards as you tap it in it will stay in place but work to way up as you play etc. sure a squirt of thin CA might keep it down but in the end I just pulled these out: a lot of them as I learned. -at my number 7&8 at had my game on. I use a suitable marble slab slightly longer and wider then the fretboard with sticky back sanding paper, I have two, one with 80g and the other with 220. I cross hatch the wood with pencil and sand until all the lines are gone. When I set these two necks I had only to tap a few here and there without leveling the frets at all. Cheated some by using EVO frets and heaver gage. -I made a tool with two angles that I bolt together with a thin saw blade set for .015" deeper then my fret tang and I chase the previously slotted groves. I feel one needs just enough relief under the fret as I think the fret pushes a little wood down and this can lead to a fret not seating correctly and popping up later. The blade I make is from a hacksaw, around 30 or more teeth per inch I think, that I thin accordingly for the correct fret barb grip. Also find the depth limit of the angles keeps one from cutting too deep on the edges of the fretboard, ya I've done some of that too, and makes for a nice uniform finished look. I feel each fretboard could use more or less of a slot width based on its hardness: make I test cut on some drop off. -don't use fret wire that comes on a roll. Strait lengths only saved me lots of headaches. -I set my frets in linseed oil. Can't say if it's better but it seals the slot and binds the fret yet just a little heat and it comes out nicely. Guessing it takes a good six months or more for the linseed to fully harden and might effect tone just a touch but all things considered the whole guitar is settling out for a few months anyway. - I've yet to have a fret shrink so only a few here and there a little high and fixed with a little tapy tap with the plastic dead blow hammer has fixed the issue. -a guitar is an organic instrument with dynamic properties as the seasons and playing comes and goes. I'm building 1000gm lightweights so I see feel and hear my guitars change, they get quite when I don't play one for a few weeks but once I get a couple hours of rasgao back into the top they really come alive. -sure I'm forgetting more then a few details... HR
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I prefer my flamenco guitar spicy, doesn't have to be fast, should have some meat on the bones, can be raw or well done, as long as it doesn't sound like it's turning green on an elevator floor. www.instagram.com/threeriversguitars
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Date Jul. 31 2020 21:36:14
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