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Is it better to glue the bridge before or after polishing?
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estebanana
Posts: 9351
Joined: Oct. 16 2009
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RE: Is it better to glue the bridge ... (in reply to Joan Maher)
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Here- I covered this for someone a few months ago: One of my friends asked how I French polish the bridge and top in the instance that I glue the bridge on before I apply finish to the top. Here's a bit on how I accomplish the task. It's not hard, but takes a couple of techniques and a few abrasives. I use Buflex and Assilex woven abrasives, and 600 to 1000 git wet /dry paper. I have a few hard expanded urethane blocks, which I cut into different sizes as needed. To start I French polish the top normally and to get in around the bridge I fold a hard corner or edge in the French polish fob. The fob, bag of cheese cloth covered in a fine muslin wrapping is the shellac applicator. I cut in right next to the bridge and through practice and experience you can figure out how to blend the strokes together with the surrounding areas. I try to wait until I have the whole top "bodied up" with shellac and then I make a small swatch of folded cloth and lay on thin films of shellac on the bridge. This can also be done ahead of gluing on the bridge after is is made. I like to lay on the first few coats and put the bridge aside for a day or two, then pore fill it with pumice, or even *gasp* CA glue. Once the bridge and the top are nearing the end of the bodying I give them a fast swipe or three with Assilex woven abrasive. Assilex is made for fine auto body work on final details, it is available online through Eagle Abrasives in the USA via Amazon. The Asslex Sky Blue color is equal to about 600 grit and does not leave deep scratch marks, it's engineered to cut a flat plane and not follow micro contours of surface. It makes **** really flat and smooth. Buflex is a related auto body product but not as aggressive and Assilex and serves as a finishing up buffer and can stand in for the "spiriting off " process done at the end of a French polish job. Or you can use Buflex and spirit off ...it's an art form. I get the edge of the hard urethane block right down on the side of the bridge and fair it out around the bridge, the block is soft enough not to scratch the bridge and flat enough to cut down any uneven shellac layers feathered out around the bridge. It is a process of flattening and then reglazing with shellac until you are happy with how it looks. I recommend doing this under Fluorescent light and then looking at the work under incandescent light. The reason is because fluorescent light is the most unforgiving light, or perhaps halogen also, for revealing the uneven contours of a finish film. It the work looks acceptable under fluorescent light it will be glorious under sunlight or incandescent illumination. And we want glorious looking work.
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