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But be careful buying 'lemon oil' from a music shop. There are a number of products that are called lemon oil that have never been anywhere near a lemon. Go to healthfood shop and buy the genuine article.
I like to use a Lemon oil based around lemon grass oil used in furnature making. It has low viscosity, a low build and a completely matt finish.
Is this what you use?
I bought a Eastman acoustic guitar recently and it had a almost mat finished ebony fretboard, which is unalike any other fretboard I've come across but it feels very nice across.
I missed your reply Anders, what is a low acid vegetable oil?
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I use a product call Guitar Honey. I've had the bottle a good 10 years now and it's great. I use it once a year on my guitars and my ebony and rosewood boards stay dark and smooth.
Iam counting 3 types of lemon oil already and everyone says "this is the one you should use"...
1 - "Guitar type" - mineral oil with added lemon scent 2 - "Lemon oil" - the one that's used for cleaning 3 - "that one from Chestnut" - says it's a finish
I think the thing to have in mind with any kind of oil is knowing if you want to CLEAN the fretboard or ADD A FINISH to it.
I use mostly Sinensis Camellia oil. I have also used a socalled fingerboard oil from one of the sellers in the US. It had a totally neutral smell and I wasnt sure if it was vegetabel. The final result was the same, so when I ran out of the expensive fingerboard oil, I continued to use Camellia, which IMO has the right viscosity and is a high level vegetable oil with a low acid content that is very good for general wood protection. But i think you can use whatever that has the right viscosity and which is an oil and not a grease cleaning product or a hardening oil that leaves a top finish. Low acid content, I believe is more because of the frets than because of the wood.
I use mostly Sinensis Camellia oil. I have also used a socalled fingerboard oil from one of the sellers in the US. It had a totally neutral smell and I wasnt sure if it was vegetabel. The final result was the same, so when I ran out of the expensive fingerboard oil, I continued to use Camellia, which IMO has the right viscosity and is a high level vegetable oil with a low acid content that is very good for general wood protection. But i think you can use whatever that has the right viscosity and which is an oil and not a grease cleaning product or a hardening oil that leaves a top finish. Low acid content, I believe is more because of the frets than because of the wood.
Thanks for the info Anders.
I read your info about vegetable oils and ended up buying some Sweet Almond Oil, which seems to be recommended for some woodwind instruments and a few bluegrass instruments as well.
I've used it for a few electric guitars that had very dry rosewood fretboards, and I am really pleased with the results.
But be careful buying 'lemon oil' from a music shop. There are a number of products that are called lemon oil that have never been anywhere near a lemon.
you mean like this stuff?
quote:
Dunlop 65 lemon oil works for me with good results.
A year after bringing a newly built guitar from Andalusia to UK it developed slight fret sprout, both sides of the board. The fret sprout then remained constant and stable throughout several years. Recently I had a luthier trim the fret ends. It was never a big problem but it does feel better now.
This guitar has a dusty/pale looking ebony fretboard. Is it a good idea to oil it? I'd like it to look darker, but not shiny.
Will a mineral oil like this one for cutting boards work?
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In recent years I’ve been using the MusicNomad F-One oil, which I believe is available in the UK. It’s not very expensive and a bottle will last forever, or until it goes rancid. I say that because it’s plant based, so it does have a shelf life (but many years), unlike the mineral oil you’re showing, which shouldn’t. I don’t know if it’s a drying oil or not, and I can’t answer to if there is any real difference between using mineral or plant based, I just know it works very well.
One very important thing is you shouldn’t dose and soak your fingerboard in it, like you’ll see being done on a lot of the internet clips. Just apply with tiny drops and rub the oil in with a fingertip works well. You don’t want it getting into the fret slots in any quantity or having it on so long it softens the wood (not sure if that actually can happen), which is why a rub on, wipe off method is preferable to going bezonkers with the stuff. But generally the small amount rubbed on will soak in very quickly so wiping off doesn’t really lift anything.
Before you apply the oil, it wouldn’t hurt to give the fretboard a wipe down with 0000 steel wool to clean everything up. Again, don’t go nuts, just a polish and clean. Your fingerboard looks like it might be stained and, if it is, the steel wool could remove some of that, so be mindful and don’t rub too hard. If you see stain lifting and revealing lighter wood beneath then stop. The oil will darken the board significantly but if it needs a stain touch up then that’s a topic for another discussion (probably a controversial one, at that). Those light streaks could just be dirt or a natural variegation of the wood, however, so don’t stress too much about it.
P.S. I just want to add, this oiling of fingerboards need not be done nearly as often as the internet would have you think. It’s an as needed kind of thing. I’ll generally oil a fingerboard after dressing frets or the like, but most of my personal guitars would be lucky if they see an application every ten years or so.
Thanks Rob. I'll look at the MusicNomad F-One oil. Does it have a smell? I already bought the Dunlop 65 oil but it smells strongly of lemon so I won't use it. Thanks for confirming the minimal application advice, that was what I had been thinking.
I've never before oiled a fret board on a guitar, even ones I've owned for more than a decade. But somehow this one seemed it might benefit. The reddish streaks are natural variation in the ebony. There is a paler, dusty looking superficial layer, but it's not dust, the fret board is clean.
If it were me I’d just put some of that cutting board mineral oil on a paper towel and squish it up, then just apply it in circles to the fingerboard. Then buff the fingerboard with a dry paper towel.
If all the brain power that goes into overthinking the treatments to fingerboards was harnessed into raw energy, the power would run the UK for 75 years.
If all the brain power that goes into overthinking the treatments to fingerboards was harnessed into raw energy, the power would run the UK for 75 years.
I can see that. Just in this thread alone there are several suggestions of which oil works, some suggestions even seem to contradict each other: Coconut oil, Sinensis Camellia oil, Whatever low acid vegetable oil, any citrus oil; lemon, lime, tangerine etc.., Lemon oil based around lemon grass oil, real walnut oil, bore oil, avoid real lemon oil, avoid Dunlop mineral oil with lemon scent, Dunlop mineral oil with lemon scent, MusicNomad F-One oil, mineral oil.
As a non-wood expert layman, I'm still in the fearful, over-thinking phase. But leaning towards using the mineral oil I've already got as you suggest Stephen.
If all the brain power that goes into overthinking the treatments to fingerboards was harnessed into raw energy, the power would run the UK for 75 years.
I can see that. Just in this thread alone there are several suggestions of which oil works, some suggestions even seem to contradict each other: Coconut oil, Sinensis Camellia oil, Whatever low acid vegetable oil, any citrus oil; lemon, lime, tangerine etc.., Lemon oil based around lemon grass oil, real walnut oil, bore oil, avoid real lemon oil, avoid Dunlop mineral oil with lemon scent, Dunlop mineral oil with lemon scent, MusicNomad F-One oil, mineral oil.
As a non-wood expert layman, I'm still in the fearful, over-thinking phase. But leaning towards using the mineral oil I've already got as you suggest Stephen.
Luthiers are similar to electric guitarists. If you start a conversation about peddles and peddle arrays on the floor in front of an an electric guitarist they will talk for lunar cycle about the first peddle, and succeeding peddles will be broken down in even finer detail. We are idiots who need to talk because we are not lead singers, basically.
Certain oils can play havoc with your fingertips. Back in the 90's I used to use Bore oil, and I found the heavy segs I had then started to become crumbly and tear up. I find lemon oil can be a bit harsh too.
3in1 oil is really good funnily enough, and smells wonderful. I've used Teak oil for a while too with good results, and a few years ago gave Howards feed n wax a try, although you have to watch what you put it on, as can leave an orange tint on lighter coloured boards.
I don't think you need to go heavy with any oil though, especially on ebony and rosewood.
If it were me I’d just put some of that cutting board mineral oil on a paper towel and squish it up, then just apply it in circles to the fingerboard. Then buff the fingerboard with a dry paper towel.
Thank you for this advice. I followed it with a good result. We are fortunate to have experts willing to advise us here.
Hardly any mineral oil needed, just the small amount carried in the paper towel. It now looks blacker, feels better and mineral oil has zero smell. Now it is similar to all the other ebony fretboards I've seen. I've never needed to oil a fretboard before. I don't imagine I'll ever need to oil this one again.
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If it were me I’d just put some of that cutting board mineral oil on a paper towel and squish it up, then just apply it in circles to the fingerboard. Then buff the fingerboard with a dry paper towel.
Thank you for this advice. I followed it with a good result. We are fortunate to have experts willing to advise us here.
Hardly any mineral oil needed, just the small amount carried in the paper towel. It now looks blacker, feels better and mineral oil has zero smell. Now it is similar to all the other ebony fretboards I've seen. I've never needed to oil a fretboard before. I don't imagine I'll ever need to oil this one again.
That’s great Orson. And if you ever need a cutting board to trim up a steak, that non toxic cutting board oil will make your fingerboard a perfect surface to trim up that steak on.
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