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RE: "Luthiers share your creations" thread
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estebanana
Posts: 9413
Joined: Oct. 16 2009
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RE: "Luthiers share your creati... (in reply to estebanana)
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quote:
I´ll keep that in mind for the next one, What would you guys use for the bridgebar Cedar or Spruce? Either. Spruce might be stiffer, but each will work and also cedro if cut right. That guitar does not have a bridge patch or how you say properly a contra puente. Is has a stiff enough top to go without. That is what I meant about the chess opening analogy- A bracing pattern can't be followed blindly, you have to feel your way through it several times to be able to read how each top will work with it an make decisions about flexibility and local areas of support. I think that Barbero pattern is an excellent basis to begin with, but when I first tried it in the late 90's and then again a few years ago, I was more hit and miss with how the guitars turned out. They turned out to be good guitars in most cases. One was a real dog and one a nice guitar with not much power, the rest were average. I have a better feel for things in general and the open area I mentioned does not worry me now. What Anders says makes sense about the contrapuente and support, but on the Brune' drawing of the 51' it shows the bridge patch only under the bridge leaving that wing to bout area more open. So even Barbero did not treat it the same way every time. Brune' kind of implied even that on the 51 the patch is just going along for the ride. :) It's been consistent for me that if you stiffen that area under the bridge and keep the five fan spread close under the bridge you get grainy-growly sounding guitars. The difficulty is handling the feel under the right hand by making the guitar not to hard- tough or not too weak. One more thing, I have come to see the closing braces in the lower bouts to be something I do not want to be without. I find the "chess openings", or brace patterns on flamencos with out the diagonal lower bout braces to be more difficult to make them work. They work very well, but I'm not going to make them anymore, I'm kind of done with experiments for the flamencos as far as that open or closed lower bout is concerned. The diagonals make too much sense and I find it hard to get the top stable without them.
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Date Mar. 16 2014 20:33:10
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estebanana
Posts: 9413
Joined: Oct. 16 2009
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RE: "Luthiers share your creati... (in reply to estebanana)
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Tom, I feel like Colombo, "Just one more question sir" - I sometimes keep the horizontal bars flat on top too. But if I do I don't put huge pillar on top of it, unless it's a classical. For a flamenco I use a regular glue block. You ever work with stiffening the ribs around the horizontal braces? I do that with big triangular pillars on top of them, it seems to introduce a kind of stability to the structure, but for some reason, ( my perception) is tat it makes flamencos too stiff. When you thin under the bridge you presumably do that before putting on the strap or bridge patch, correct? Do you feel it allows the bridge to move more freely, but still keeps the field of the top stiffer and stronger so it does not lose power? Many years ago I read your page in the GAl publication on thinning under the bridge, but I did not understand exactly how you were doing it, the concept merited more space.
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Date Mar. 18 2014 0:15:28
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Tom Blackshear
Posts: 2304
Joined: Apr. 15 2008
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RE: "Luthiers share your creati... (in reply to estebanana)
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quote:
When you thin under the bridge you presumably do that before putting on the strap or bridge patch, correct? Do you feel it allows the bridge to move more freely, but still keeps the field of the top stiffer and stronger so it does not lose power? Jose Rubio, many years ago with his presentation in Canada, talked about raising or lowering the top's frequency: lowering it by sanding in the middle of the top and raising it by sanding around the edges. The sanding in the middle did several things, one was improving the string torque against the top and causing the articulation to tighten up with a snap from side to side rather than having the strings bounce up and down. Reyes did this with his strut modulation techniques, without having to take too much off the top thickness around the middle area under the bridge. Sanding in the middle is an old flamenco technique that some of the masters used to use to tighten up the action. The idea is to feather the thinning very little and see how much the guitar is going to require, before you do more. I became very efficient with removing bridges, sometimes up to 5 times, before I learned what a guitar top would take to make it perform well. And it seems that guitar tops are the main source of communication as long as we keep the back and sides thin enough to give it good vibrations. And I build the top all together with its pattern, strap, and all the struts and install it, and then work from there on the outside for top thinning.
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Tom Blackshear Guitar maker
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Date Mar. 18 2014 2:57:51
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