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Crack photo + rough cost to cleat/glue?
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HolyEvil
Posts: 1240
Joined: Nov. 6 2008
From: Sydney, Australia
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RE: Crack photo + rough cost to clea... (in reply to HolyEvil)
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the seller had the guitar sitting under the bed for the past few years. Actually the crack is actually not obvious when you look at it face on.. story goes, I chance upon this flamenco guitar, got it at a good price, seller mentioned near mint. I went to check it out, didn't notice the cracks (there's actually 2, this one and another that is REALLY hard to see). Seeing the saddle was all the way down and action seemed a little high, asked him how many mm it was, he told me it was 3, told him it looked a little higher than that, but he assured me as he just got it setup, frets were all polished and fretboard clean, guitar was very clean too. Came home with it, checked with a ruler and its 4mm.. grrrrrrr I'm trying to get him to fork out 1/2 the fixing up cost, wanna get a new fretboard to lower the action (would need your aid again Jeff if you're ok with it). and get the cracks glued up. the guitar itself sounds pretty good, very very light, very raspy, loud and balsy, now I'm deciding whether to return it if the seller won't split the cost (if he'll take it back) i've attached another pic of the 2nd crack I just found 6 hrs ago. I'm doing my nighshift now, have my sinsonido (thanks again to jeff for introducting it) and hopefully not too many sick patients. p/s- why is it important to know how long it has been like that? just for the dirt issue? any other reasons? thanks for the replies guys.
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Date Jun. 11 2011 15:36:55
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Anders Eliasson
Posts: 5780
Joined: Oct. 18 2006
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RE: Crack photo + rough cost to clea... (in reply to HolyEvil)
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quote:
The height over bridge is 8mm over soundhole is 9mm. The frets are virtually brand new. All similar height about 1mm, not worn down like the david macias negra that u helped me with, so I believe the guy's story of it sitting under his bed for the past few years. One thing about the fretboard is that it's 6mm at the nut, 5mm at the 12th fret and 4mm at the soundhole. I've checked out another flamenco of the maker's and the fingerboard is made the same way. So I'm thinking a tiny wedge would good here rather than a whole new fretboard due to the great frets it still has on now. You have a guitar with a tapered fingerboard (6mm at the nut, 4mm at soundhole), a 4mm setup and 8mm at the bridge.... Its not going to be that easy... There are some angles that have to be adjusted here and I´m not to sure its going to be a nice setup. There might be some things in your explication that I misunderstand, but if I´ve understood you right, and you brought the guitar to me asking me to make a 3mm setup, I would probably say no....... depending a bit on the neck and other things. To me it sounds like the guitar has a very flat neckangle and maybe also a strong dome on the top. (or it could be a warped neck) Not the nicest to work with. Also when you work fingerboards, on Spanish guitars, its standard procedure to refret.. Even though you take off the fingerboard and make a wedge, it would be a good idea to refret in order to get a really good setup. So you have a guitar with 2 cracks, a very widegrained soundboard and a setup that from your description is difficult to work with. Are you sure its worth the effort to fix it? I´m not trying to be negative. On the contrary... I´m trying to be helpfull and I hope that what I just wrote will be proved to be wrong.
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Date Jun. 12 2011 7:58:45
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HolyEvil
Posts: 1240
Joined: Nov. 6 2008
From: Sydney, Australia
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RE: Crack photo + rough cost to clea... (in reply to Jeff Highland)
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Jeff Highland Yeah, what Anders says is right, it's not easy and may not be worth it.but if you have it now and cant get a refund...... I would have to see the instument but it may be able to be approached like this... -Take the saddle and bridge down to 7mm above the top, if necessary converting to 12 hole tie block. this will get you 0.5mm reduction in 12th fret string height If that is not enough for you, - pull the frets and plane from 12th fret down to nut to take of 1mm at the nut That would get you another 0.5m at the 12th hey jeff.. do you have the equipment to convert it to a 12 hole bridge? I don't mind removing the bridge, then drilling the extra 6 holes then regluing the bridge if it make moot of the neck angle issue. if you can.. would this work? convert to 12 hole bridge for break angle, deepen the current saddle slot 2-2.5mm, shave the top of the saddle slot down (where it's holding the saddle, have no idea what the correct term is, slot holder??), the current saddle depth is about 4mm above the soundboard. thus lowering the action by 1mm. I'll show in 2 pictures..
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Date Jun. 12 2011 9:55:35
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HolyEvil
Posts: 1240
Joined: Nov. 6 2008
From: Sydney, Australia
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RE: Crack photo + rough cost to clea... (in reply to HolyEvil)
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quick update, just got the guitar back from a local luthier, he diagnosed the high action due to a neck bow on the guitar, he took the original board off, straightened the neck, put a carbon fibre rod in, put a new thicker fretboard which took the board thickness to 6mm (from 4mm) at the 12th fret and now the set up is about 9mm bridge, 10mm over soundhole, 3mm action bass, about 2.8 action treble. Like i said in my other posts, the guitar is about 1.2kg, very loud (louder than my David Macias Negra - thanks orson) and ballsy and has a tone totally different from my negra. Another thing is when I play my negra, when i strike an open string or a note, other strings that are not struck vibrate more and on this guitar there's less of it.. It's playing great now. just that the pegs might need servicing.. some pegs feel tight, or I'm just not working it correctly.. when I wanna tune it up slightly to pitch.. it's so hard to turn on some pegs.. Is it better to tune higher than pitch, and then pull string strings (ala stretching the string when new) to lower it to the correct pitch? cheers
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Date Nov. 10 2011 21:45:23
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