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n85ae -> RE: West system epoxy (Sep. 5 2007 15:26:53)
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Andrew -
What you describe would work, I personally would definetly NOT do it though.
That's based on my experience using the stuff.
It cures clear if it is fairly thin, and is in fact used as a wood finish a lot for
boats when thinned. I used it as a floor finish in our camper trailer because
it is very durable, and I wanted a super tough finish on the floor.
West System's epoxy 105 is a much harder material than the guitar's finish
will ever be. So if it bonds, and you ever need to remove it, you will be taking
off guitar finish to do it. I'm not fooling either. Aaron's kidding himself, he
obviously has not removed a lot of tap plates bonded with this stuff. I have
sanded a lot of stuff made with this, and we're talking belt sander action.
You will find yourself cursing Aaron for twenty years if you ever have to try
to hand sand this stuff off your guitar. It is a major pain to hand sand in it's
pure form, less fillers.
It absolutely does not stick to plastic, you will have to sand the plastic very
well to get some tooth in it, and you may find yourself with a tap plate laying
on the floor after a golpe which knocks it free. Plastic is commonly used as a
molding and release material for this stuff.
It reminds me of reading about a plane where the guy laminated a layer
of polyester (i.e. plastic) into the wing of his plane, and it delaminated in
flight. Polyester is commonly used in composite building, and is called
peel-ply you use it as the top layer to absorb excess resin, then after
curing it simply pulls off taking the excess resin with it. Needless to say
the airplane guy is no longer playing guitar.
It is VERY messy, and the best cleaning agent is Alchohol, and MEK, which
needless to say aren't good choices for a guitar. Naptha works, but only
poorly. Same goes for mineral spirits. That's probably why he mentioned
the LOTS of paper towels.
The pumps work very well, and the biggest problem people have is you need
to pump some material through the pump to eliminate air bubbles in order to
get the ratio's correct.
I use the 105 Resin, and the 205 and 206 hardeners. I prefer the 206.
206 will start to thicken after an hour or so, and be at the "green"
stage in about 4-6 hours (this is where it is a bit soft, and can be cut
with a utility knife). After 24 hours it is like rock, and after a week
indestructable.
The 400 series fillers are very usefull for transforming the resin for
various use. Like as a sandable filler, or as a structural adhesive, or
even as a bearing surface using graphite filler.
Whatever you do if you use it, do not mix it in a cup, and then leave it
sitting there. Pour it out in a tray or some other flat surface. In a cup
it will exotherm, which is basically the epoxy getting hot as it cures, and
making itself cure faster, in turn making more heat. I have had it start
smoking, and had to take it outside the shop when this has happened.
When spread out thinly the heat dissapates, and exotherming won't
happen.
It's not at all scary stuff, it's just messy, messy, messy, until it cures then
it's tough like steel.
My very nice Pedro De Miguel appears to have an adhesive back tap plate,
same as my cheap Yamaha. Can't see why you wouldn't want to simply
just go that route??? Seems a lot simpler.
Regards,
Jeff
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