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RobF -> RE: hijos de vicente tatay (Oct. 20 2025 2:48:30)
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If you're looking to turn it into a flamenco action then you could probably get away with it by making a new bridge. If the action is now 5mm at the 12th then knocking 4mm off at the saddle gives you a nice 7.5mm string height there with 3mm at the 12th, which are nice numbers (on paper). So that's an idea. I'm not sure anyone sells flamenco dimensioned pre-made bridges, however, so you'll probably have to carve your own.
But that doesn't mean it's going to work. You still have to evaluate why the action is sitting at 5mm to start with. Was it by design or has the neck angle changed, or is it the neck itself that's out of whack? The reason I'm asking is just getting the action down at the bridge isn't going to do much good if the neck itself is in unplayable shape. So you could be looking at a fingerboard adjustment and refret as well as a new bridge.
You might be falling into one of those "lipstick on a pig" scenarios. The current bridge does have to come off and re-attaching it is no big deal, but the whole system should be analyzed before committing yourself to doing much more than that, IMO.
Oh, and for removal, for sure you'll need heat, some moisture, and a good thin spatula. Generally if you get the bridge up to about 145-150 degrees F the glue should start to loosen (depending upon what they used). If it's hide glue you'll have to introduce moisture and it won't hurt doing that if it's aliphatic too. You've got a lot of gap already to get in there with the spatula, just work sideways so it doesn't jab into the long grain. There's lots of helpful videos online about bridge removal, it's not so difficult if you're patient and don't force things, just take your time and let the heat do the work. Mark the spatula at less than the width of the bridge so you don't push it past the mark across to the other side and muck up the finish. Mainly be careful about not imbedding the spatula into the top wood when you work with the grain as you can go right through the top. It can feel just like you're pushing against glue, so that's why it's best to work sideways when possible and give the heat a chance to loosen everything up.
One last thing...if it's held on with hide glue sometimes you can just knock the bridge off with a sharp rap. I've only heard that it can be done that way, however, I've never had the guts to try it myself. But sometimes that's all it takes (apparently).
I hope that's of some help. I do go on...
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