RobF -> RE: Bridge modification - angles and bodges (Dec. 9 2017 16:21:05)
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Without seeing the rest of the guitar it’s difficult to recommend a solution but I think any further bridge work should only be carried out with a mind towards stabilizing the structure. The solution lies at the neck end, as Morente has suggested. For the bridge, I would deepen the saddle slot by about a half millimetre, just to the point where the bottom of the slot meets the wing and fit a saddle the same width as the slot having about 1mm protrusion above the wood of the bridge. I’d also clean up the flat spot made by lowering the wood, but that’s just cosmetic, unless the strings are hitting the wood after exiting the tie block hole, in which case it should be done. If there is enough wood on the fingerboard then Morente’s suggestion is probably the first line of defence. Basically, you remove wood from the nut end to reset the neck angle to give you the desired action at the 12th. But, if the fingerboard is thin, say much less than 3.5 - 4mm, then this might not be possible or desirable from a structural point of view. At that point replacing the fingerboard with a deeper one could get you where you want to be. A 6mm thick fingerboard is pretty standard and will effectively lower the action by ...*edit - sorry about this, it should say... ‘half of’ whatever the difference in thickness is from the old fingerboard. If the fingerboard dimensions are already good then slipping the back could be considered, but this is major surgery. At that point you have to ask yourself if the guitar is worth the trouble. All IMO, of course. Best,
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