estebanana -> RE: Hinoki Eye Candy - 2017 Blanca (Jul. 22 2017 0:52:52)
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I picked up the technique from Chris Berkov, CA guys were doing this quite some time before the GAL article. Mark Silber also told me about it a long time ago. Aaron does two things that are important, I adopted one of them. That is to set the peg deeper on the shaft. The idea is that it reduces torque and puts less stress on the peg. Instead of leaving 26 mm of shaft behind the headstock, I'm setting the pegs at 23 mm and then using the peg compound, the pegs bed in another mm or two. Berkov also told me he used Teak pegs with good result, so I used to use teak plugs, they work great as teak is hard and slippery. The other thing Aaron does is 'pin' the plug with a counter dowel set halfway into the plugs outer edge. It keeps the plug from ever getting loose and spinning inside the headstock. My solution, the chances of that happening are remote, is to set the plug in off center to the peg hole. Violin makers bush pegs by setting the bushing off center then drill the hole close to the outside of the bushing. It uses the peg itself to create the dowel pin that Aaron adds. I think the extra hour of cutting and setting the plugs is more than worth it. For one thing if you set them Aaron's way with the dowel pin, the Forstner bit you use to cut the plug hole on the head will make a pin hole in the center of the plug on the outside of the headstock and give you a ready made center for drilling the peg holes. If you do it my way, you just measure down 5 milli from the center hole and drill, thus offsetting the peg in the plug. The part that is overkill is probably pinning the plug, as it's glued in on all surfaces. The most important part of setting pegs is shaving the peg, and reaming the hole with skill. I use a double bevel angle plane iron set into a block of wood with a hole reamed into it. It's 16th century work, but if you massage the plane iron around and set it just right the pegs fit the reamed hole like a mechanic fit them. It's mechanic work with wood parts. The important advantage the internal plug gives you in reaming the hole is that the reamer never passes between long grain and end grain and has a chance to chatter or change pressure against the different grain orientations. That is why reamer holes can get ovoid, even with a good reamer. The constant application of the reamer blades on the hard long grain running one direction make possible the creation of a more accurate tapered hole that is as perfectly round as you can get with hand tools. More than anyone wanted to know, but anyone wishing to try this could read Aaron's essay.
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