Richard Jernigan -> RE: All is Well with the World (Sep. 25 2016 22:41:38)
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In the 35-mile passage from the south end of Kwajalein Atoll to the north end of Namu Atoll, there is usually a part of the North Equatorial Countercurrent that sets westward at a couple of knots. But sometimes the Countercurrent does not flow between the two atolls, or sometimes the Countercurrent moves further south and an eddy of the Countercurrent sets eastward instead of westward. The sailing passage between the two atolls is usually made at night. You depart Kwajalein harbor at the south end of the atoll around sunset, sail north-northwest to the lighted buoys of Gea pass to get from the lagoon into the ocean, sail down the west side of Kwajalein, across the inter-atoll passage, and halfway down the west side of Namu to the pass into the lagoon. You want to arrive at the Namu pass sometime after 10 AM, so the sun is high enough for you to see down into the clear water, to find the twisting path through the reef. The only safe way to get through the pass is to actually see the obstacles. The most up to date chart of Namu contains not a single depth sounding inside the lagoon. The legend in the lower right hand corner of the U.S. government issued chart says, "Compiled from a 1928 survey by the British Admiralty Office." The pass is superbly drawn, but too intricate to navigate any other way than by sight. On the chart, the lagoon is totally blank. As you tack upwind across the lagoon to the village of Majikin on the east reef, you need to see the coral heads lurking just below the surface, waiting to rip the bottom out of your boat. The coral heads rise nearly vertically from the 100-foot depth of the lagoon, so a depth sounder is useless to detect them. In the days before GPS receivers were affordable and portable enough to be carried aboard a cruising sailboat, to compensate for the expected current in the inter-atoll passage you steered left of the compass course between the two atolls. But if the current was setting eastward instead of westward, you risked being out of sight of Namu when the sun came up. The thing to do in this case was to come up on a broad starboard reach, sail back to the west-northwest, and hope to see Namu before long. One of my friends was describing such a trip in his Cal 20, about as small a boat as you would like to go to sea in. A Marshallese friend was in the group. "But why didn't you know the current was going east?" he asked. "I had no way of finding my position. It was dark and the horizon was invisible, so I couldn't do a star or moon sight," my friend replied. He is an experienced sailor, having done the trip from Kwajalein to Honolulu (in a 35-foot successor to the Cal 20), taking 45 days, among other voyages, before the advent of GPS. "But when you cleared the south end of Kwad'len the waves would have told you," our Marshallese friend observed. Nine months out of the year the daily wind forecast is "east-northeast at 12-18 knots, gusts to 25 knots near squalls," the steady and reliable tradewinds. They set up a long running ocean swell. As the tradewind swell diffracts around the south end of Kwajalein it sets up a distinctive pattern, easily felt at night while sailing. The waves become steeper and more closely spaced. The boat tends to pound. After half an hour or 45 minutes you come out into the long, rolling tradewind swell in the passage and the boat's motion smoothes out. But the pattern is subtly different, depending on the eastward or westward set of the current in the inter-atoll passage. Most Marshallese knew this. Few Americans could sense the difference, even after being told about it. Nowadays you just compare your GPS position regularly to your dead reckoning position, find your current induced drift, and plot your course to compensate for it. In the morning you see the coconut palms waving over the village of Namu-Namu, and enjoy the smooth sailing in the calmer waters in the lee of the atoll, but still with a good breeze blowing across the low islands. After you come to anchor in fifty feet off the Majikin beach in the afternoon, men appear alongside in outrigger rowing canoes, bringing drinking coconuts as a gesture of welcome. One of the canoes bears an official representative of the village council, who recites a speech of formal greeting. If you live on Roi-Namur you are only 110 miles from home, but you are in a different world. RNJ
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