Cervantes -> RE: Help me with my saddle (Feb. 9 2016 16:55:49)
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ORIGINAL: Anders Eliasson I would make a new saddle without ramps and test how the intonation is. If its sharp on 12th fret, I would ramp the 2 e-strings and when in tune, I would ramp the whole saddle to a straight line between the two ramps. Compensation is pretty simple and not high tec. It also changes with string brand and tension. But in general, if you meassure the 2 E strings from nut to 12th fret center!, then the stringlength from 12th fret center! to front of saddle should be around 1mm longer on trebble -e and 1.5mm longer on bass-e. example bass-e: 325mm from nut to 12th fret center! = 326.5mm from 12th fret center! to front of saddle Good luck Anders, Thanks that helps a lot. I started reading about intonation and compensation and its really complex, my head is spinning right now. But I will continue to read about it. I made some measurements on my guitar: Low E 329 mm nut to 12th fret, 328 mm 12th fret to saddle. High E 329 mm nut to 12th fret, 326 mm 12th fret to saddle. I guess this explains why my guitar is sharp by about 12 cents at the 12th fret. So I think I should make the new saddle with the contact to the strings further back. I also noted that the strings contact the nut (its plastic) more towards the head stock, the nut slots are not flat there is a ramp so the strings are in the air where the nut meets the finger board. On my classical guitar the nut slots are flat. If I change the nut to one with flat slots it will shorten the strings which might improve the intonation. Can I buy a nut already made that fits or do they have to be custom fitted to each guitar? I am also wondering how high should the strings be above the fingerboard or first fret at the nut? For some reason I always though this guitar was 650mm but it looks like it is 660mm. I have smaller hands so I was thinking I would go for 650mm on my next guitar.
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