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Ricardo -> RE: Tuning problems when capo on (Apr. 20 2015 17:02:10)
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quote:
ORIGINAL: lavecchia
Hey guys,
It maybe a dumm question but I am constantly having a tuning problem when I put capo on my guitar. Even though it is totally tuned without a capo, every time I put it on, at least one of the strings is out of the tun. I am using Planet Waves NS Classical Guitar capo but I have tried the other basic one as well (can't remember the brand name). Does anybody else experience this problem? Is the problem in capo itself?
Thanks
You can read through the recent "tuning by ear" thread and read my comments only. [:D]
Basically, it is what I said...neither your FINGER nor your capo can provide PERFECT clamping pressure to all or any strings. So you have to:
1. Tune open strings with no fingers on the fingerboard using one of various methods.
2. Do it AGAIN AFTER the capo goes on, such that the capo postion is taken as "open" notes and tune again open strings with no fingers on the fingerboard.
Would like to add that one can "fine tune" so to speak by doing advised tugging the string to make it flat, or bending the string behind the capo to make it sharper...but too much tugging action is causing long term damage to your tie block, especially bass strings. (tugging is producing a saw like action to the string holes and overtime decreasing your break angle over the saddle). I recommend post capo clamp to do normal tuning with winders or pegs PLUS the bending behind the capo thing. The tugging I describe below, I acually hold the string down on a high fret with one hand and pull string with the other, to prevent the up lifting action from sawing into the string holes.
Here is an example I will use my guitar and trad capo and play it as it lies so to speak, it can be a little different each time.
1. I tune the guitar to open harmonics from 6->1...5th frt low E str match to 7th fret A string, then 5th frt A string match 7th of D str, then 5th fret D string to 7th G string...finally use 7th fret low E harm to open B string, and last use 7th fret A str to open E string.
3. Put capo on 4th fret. I personally find issues with capo that if I play hard I get buzzing unless capo is placed fairly tight and up close to the fet wire. This clamps strong but has caused some strings to be off. Also I put strap over top so string comes from underneath...the reverse might cause a different kind of pressure. Preliminary check shows low E is flat, D is a bit flat, and B is very sharp...perhaps G is a bit shart etc.
4. Ideally you should now use a reliable source for the low E (absolute G# with capo on) or some other note, but if you simply want to tune guitar to itself, no tuner or source, then I normally take the 5th string as the more stable one under the capo. So here is what I do next (in this case).
5. check 6th and 5th strings at same harmonic points as step 1... (literally above capo we have 9th fret of low E str match to 11th fret of A str...hope this is obvious). E was flat so a little bend BEHIND the capo actually fixes this perfectly...other folks might have to use the winders/pegs etc...but for me this worked. Next same steps as in 1, D was flat so a gentle bend behind capo worked...G string was sharp so I tug it gently...a bit too hard so it is flat, so I bend just a hair behind capo until it is perfect...next B string was sharp like the G same deal to fix it...a tug, a bend until perfect. This time my high E was right on with 7th fret of A string (literally 11th fret)...and it's ready to go. I want to add I have on extremely OLD strings on this particular guitar, and it plays just fine now...and also that it took a lot less time than it would to read through this.
As we play with capo on we may knock things around a bit, and the strings warm up and trebels can go sharp, but like described a little tug or bend fixes most issues. .
This was Capo 4...capo 1 for example is tough and I use more the string winders/pegs for adjusting as I don't have much room to bend behind the nut.
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