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Pimientito

Posts: 2481
Joined: Jul. 30 2007
From: Marbella

Alhambra Adventures 

I have been away from the forum for a little while now preparing a new project. I was talking to Kate about it and she suggested I post something on it as I have been lucky to see some things on the path of my research that few people get to see. My idea was to collect and perform guitar pieces by the most well known classical and flamenco composers from Granada and reinterpret some of those classical pieces from a flamenco point of view. This started me on a trail of research that has led me to some surprising places and secret areas of the Alhambra.

My first step was to figure out what classical composers were significant from Granada. They were Luis de Narveaz ( a vihuela player from the 1500’s), Antonio Ruiz Pipó, Angel Barrios ( not to be confused with the Barrios from Paraguay) and Andres Segovia.
I also included Manuel de Falla since he lived a large portion of his life in Granada.

First step was to find the scores of Angel Barrios. Barrios was the son of a flamenco guitarist and his music is very flamenco based. Many of his themes are variations of well known falsettas. He lived in the Alhambra back in the days when the C/ Real was a street with houses and bars. Today there is a museum to Angel Barrios next to the Arabic baths in the Alhambra so I went there one morning to get more information.



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  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Feb. 18 2012 9:36:47
 
Pimientito

Posts: 2481
Joined: Jul. 30 2007
From: Marbella

RE: Alhambra Adventures (in reply to Pimientito

After a climb up the steep hill and wood land leading to the Alhambra, I walked through the Puerta de Justicia and into the C/ Real. Arriving at the museum, I was disappointed to find it closed so I asked a security guard outside when it would be open again. He shrugged his shoulders and said he didn’t know. This is not the first time in Andalucia I have been on a wild goose chase and I felt that day would be no different but I asked him if maybe he could suggest someone who could help. He said I should go to the information office down the hill. At the information office I asked what time the museum was open. They shrugged their shoulders and said they didn’t know either because it was a private museum and didn’t really fall into the category of information about the Alhambra. At this point I was starting to get a bit frustrated which only led to make me more determined to see the Barrios Archive.
…ok then how do I find out about who can let me into the archive.
“that’s a security issue…you need to go to the security office.”
So then I walked all the way up to the top of the C/Real again to a small security office where 2 armed guards looked at me suspiciously while I was nervously asking about the archive.
Again I got shrugged shoulders “we don’t know when it will be open” followed by “you don’t have security clearance anyway”
….So how do I get that then?
“Find Mariano…he’s in the admin building somewhere. Go through the door, turn left, then right, follow round, up, down, right again and you will find him”
The day was not going well, I had planned to get to the archive, research the scores and get home for lunch. So far I had been walking up and down the Alhambra for 2 hours and getting nowhere. I had never been in this part of the Alhambra before and now I was completely lost in the admin building. I knocked on a random door and asked for Mariano.
A middle aged man looked up from a desk piled with paperwork. “yes” he replied.
You are Mariano? Thank God. I explained that I wanted to get into the Barrios archive.
“well that is shut right now because we are changing it around. Most of the material isn’t there any more”
So is there any way to view the documents
“well, are you an official researcher?
At this point in the conversation I didn’t want to ask what an official researcher was so I simply said yes!
“Well I could give you a security pass to the Alhambra archive I suppose”
The archive of the whole Alhambra?????
“yes, give me your ID, and I’ll get you clearance”
I sat back in the guards office again. 10 minutes later Mariano returned with a red card laminated in plastic, signed and stamped, numbered and dated, a security pass into the Archive. It was a ticket into Aladdin’s cave!

I consider myself to know the Alhambra very well. I have been there dozens of times and walk my dog around it on Sundays. I have explored everywhere open to the public and seen a lot of parts that are not. It still surprises me to find new things, new buildings, gardens and places I havent seen before. If we consider not just the old city walls but all the woodland around the palace, then the area from the back of the Alhambra cemetery to the Torre Bermeja and Rio Darro is at least 6 km long and at least 30square km. I have yet to see everything in it.

The next week I went back to the Alhambra with my pass and walked towards the archive. The Alhambra archive is situated above the Generalife. It’s a huge building, maybe 3 city blocks and 4 stories high. Some areas of it are storage for the arsenal of gardening equipment, others are for conservation and then there is the archive and library. Its very secure, more so than the Alhambra itself and has cameras every 50 yards on the fences around it. It took me a while to find the door to the archive and even longer to find someone to let me in. However once I was inside, the curators were unbelievably helpful, friendly and efficient. Everything is cataloged on computer. You find the item and the curators get it for you. The computer system is linked to all the other archives in Granada so if an item you are researching isn’t kept there, the system will tell you where it is.
Not only that, they can make copies of anything from documents, photos, manuscripts.
Much of the archive is digitized and you can explore parts of it from home by logging into the system of archives at www.juntadeandalucia.es .This will tell you if the item is stored at the archive...but you cant see the digitised item or download it unless you are logged into the alhambra system. Once you are inside the alhambra system you can access, examine and download everything.
I plundered the photo collection for images of guitarists and composers in Granada and came away with some very useful and unobtainable images. However, I couldn’t get copies of Barrios guitar scores. “They are not here” I was told, “you have to go the centre of musical documentation on the River Darro. They hold all the manuscripts.”
So the following week I went to the manuscript archive who again were very helpful. The archive is hard to find because all you can see in the street is a small plaque on the wall. I must have walked past it hundreds of times over the years and never noticed it. An anonymous wooden door leads to a staircase that takes you up to the library. I asked the curators to help me locate the material and some minutes later they returned with boxes of documents. They had scores of everything by Barrios, Segovia, Ruiz Pipo and a lot of works by luis de Narveaz too (although not the one I was looking for). This was unbelievably helpful. I raided this archive too and digitized most of the Barrios and Ruiz Pipo material.
They didn’t however have the scores by Manuel de Falla. “they are all kept in the Manuel de Falla archive”…….so rather intrepidly I went to investigate.

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  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Feb. 18 2012 9:38:39
 
Pimientito

Posts: 2481
Joined: Jul. 30 2007
From: Marbella

RE: Alhambra Adventures (in reply to Pimientito

The manuel de falla archive is difficult to locate because it is confused with the manuel de falla museum. The manuel de falla museum is basically the house where de falla lived.
http://www.museomanueldefalla.com/
Its an interesting place but its not where all his manuscripts are archived. It took me a while to figure out where the actual archive is…you guessed it…it’s in the Alhambra.

www.granada.org/inet/wagenda.nsf/wwcetod/Archivo%20Manuel%20de%20Falla
The archive is kept in yet another building I had never seen before between the gardens of Martires and the manuel de Falla auditorium.

The archive has nearly ALL of his original scores, loads of photos, recordings on sound reels, concert programmes etc. and they will also let you make photocopies, digitized copies, copies of recordings….all unbelievably helpful and cheap. The Alhambra archive does charge for releasing material. The centre of musical documentation is free to join, and free to borrow or copy material. The manuel de falla archive charges a minimal amount for copies.

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  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Feb. 18 2012 9:41:39
 
Munin

 

Posts: 595
Joined: Sep. 30 2008
From: Hong Kong

RE: Alhambra Adventures (in reply to Pimientito

Lovely story, Pim, and so colorfully written (and of course not omitting all the bureaucratic BS so typical of Spain). Makes me miss Granada. I hope we'll also be able to hear the material performed at some point, it must been on the verge of having been forgotten considering the amount of trouble you had to go through to get these transcriptions.
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Feb. 18 2012 13:39:18
 
Adam

Posts: 1156
Joined: Dec. 6 2006
From: Hamilton, ON

RE: Alhambra Adventures (in reply to Pimientito

Good stuff Mark! Is that the story to date or are you still typing up the next chapters? Looking forward to hearing these performances when the project is done.
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Feb. 18 2012 15:42:17
 
mrMagenta

Posts: 942
Joined: Oct. 25 2006
From: Sweden

RE: Alhambra Adventures (in reply to Pimientito

:-) Very exiting stuff! Hope this leads on to many adventures. I bet this work will bear some great fruit. I've been interested in looking into some de Falla duets. One more thing to add to the pile of things to take on once my wrist gets better.

Ps. Can I buy a hardcopy of ceremonials from you?
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Feb. 18 2012 15:48:16
 
Pimientito

Posts: 2481
Joined: Jul. 30 2007
From: Marbella

RE: Alhambra Adventures (in reply to Munin

I was a bit over zealous on the size of the Alhambra earlier. Its the hills that make the area seem bigger. Actually its more like 3km by 2km so only 6 square KM.

quote:

I hope we'll also be able to hear the material performed at some point, it must been on the verge of having been forgotten considering the amount of trouble you had to go through to get these transcriptions.


There is a lot of material that is out of print and gathering dust in various archives all over the world. Just like music today though,you have to go through a lot of badly written things to find the good stuff.
The main reason I went back to the roots of the scores is because much of the classical repertoire was fingered by Pujol, Tarrega, llobet, yepes etc. and hasnt been updated for 50 years. Consequently many classical players keep copying (IMO) flawed transcriptions over the decades. Yepes simplified the flamenco rhythms in Ruiz pipos work. Rhythms of Farruca and Bulerias in other works have been simplified to fit classical technique. Going back to the source and using flamenco technique will hopefully give me a more authentic interpretation of these classic works.

quote:

Ps. Can I buy a hardcopy of ceremonials from you?

Of course!! send me a PM

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"Ceremonial" by Mark Shurey "Pimientito". CD and digital download vailable on Amazon and
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  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Feb. 18 2012 16:47:22
 
Richard Jernigan

Posts: 3430
Joined: Jan. 20 2004
From: Austin, Texas USA

RE: Alhambra Adventures (in reply to Pimientito

Ah wonderful, Pimientito!

Some of my fondest memories are of visits to the Alhambra, starting back in the 1960s, when there were far fewer tourists.

In May of 2007 Larisa and I stayed for a few days at the Carmen de la Alcubilla del Caracol, on the Cuesta del Realejo, just under the walls of the fortress. Our balcony had a wonderful view over the city and off to the Sierra Nevada.

We're going to Italy this May. Larisa lived there for four years, so she'll be my guide, chauffeur and translator. She has to be back at work in 10 days, but I think I'll stay in Europe a few more weeks. I may even make it to Granada in late May or early June.

I really look forward to hearing and reading the results of your project!

RNJ
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Feb. 18 2012 19:27:00
 
mrMagenta

Posts: 942
Joined: Oct. 25 2006
From: Sweden

RE: Alhambra Adventures (in reply to Pimientito

Mark,
Did you get my pm?
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Feb. 25 2012 15:50:08
 
bluesbuster

Posts: 56
Joined: Mar. 9 2011
From: Los Angeles

RE: Alhambra Adventures (in reply to Pimientito

Fascinating! Thank you Mark "Pimientito"
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Feb. 25 2012 22:55:09
 
Pimientito

Posts: 2481
Joined: Jul. 30 2007
From: Marbella

RE: Alhambra Adventures (in reply to Pimientito

Just to bring to story to date, the Archive of Manuel de Falla helped me a lot last week with the millers dance. This has been around as a guitar solo for a long time but I feel not well interpreted as a farruca. I kept finding the same badly fingered guitar scores so I asked the de Falla archive if they had his manuscripts of the ballet "the three cornered hat". The curators came back with boxes of scores and manuscripts. It was really something to browse that material written in de fallas own hand. When I came across the millers dance in the ballet they kindly made copies of the manuscript to take home and study. I have felt very privilidged to be able to re finger these works from the original scores.



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  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Feb. 26 2012 15:05:28
 
Pimientito

Posts: 2481
Joined: Jul. 30 2007
From: Marbella

RE: Alhambra Adventures (in reply to Pimientito

As an aside I was visiting the "torre bermeja" this morning. I cant understand how Albeniz wrote such a beautiful piece about such a boring building. It must be a description of the view of the city. The Torre Bermeja is a pair of squat towers on the hill adjacent to the alhambra. A fortified wall runs from the towers, down the hill to the puerta de granadas and then straight up the hill to the base of the alcazaba. The first photo is of the torre bermeja and the second is the view of the alhambra from there.





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_____________________________

Follow my blog http://pimientito.wordpress.com/

"Ceremonial" by Mark Shurey "Pimientito". CD and digital download vailable on Amazon and
CDbaby. http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/markshurey
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Feb. 26 2012 15:15:04
 
Pimientito

Posts: 2481
Joined: Jul. 30 2007
From: Marbella

RE: Alhambra Adventures (in reply to Pimientito

What aroused my curiosity was the way the defence wall climbed the hill to the base of the alhambra. There were so many trees in the way that it looked as if it were possible to get into the very front part of the defences by simply climbing the hill. Curiosity got the better of me so with my trusty dog, I went down to the puerta de granadas then up the hill directly next to this wall.

This turned out to be not as easy as I first thought. Firstly a small stream runs along the length of the wall making a natural trench so the wall is higher. Secondly the slope is extremely steep indeed and the ground is very loose. At points you have to scramble up surfaces where the ground is giving way beneath your feet.
About halfway up I stopped and took the shots. The first is of the wall itself in the woods and the second is a rarely seen view of the torre bermeja from the Alhambra defence wall





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Follow my blog http://pimientito.wordpress.com/

"Ceremonial" by Mark Shurey "Pimientito". CD and digital download vailable on Amazon and
CDbaby. http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/markshurey
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Feb. 26 2012 15:24:28
 
Pimientito

Posts: 2481
Joined: Jul. 30 2007
From: Marbella

RE: Alhambra Adventures (in reply to Pimientito

Now the climb got really tough, the slope got steeper, the footing more dangerous but with a bit of effort I scrambled up the the base of the Alhambra walls. There a was a ledge that had some firm ground and I stopped to rest and get rid of the pounding in my head.
The defence wall had at some time a doorway leading to the front of the alhambra defences but this had been bricked up in the past so my attempt to get on to the front of the headland was foiled. (first photo) You can see how steep the hill is at ths point. The fact that the trees have a footing is amazing.
I looked up from the base of the wall to the alcazaba. It towered many stories above me with no way to get in. (second photo) How on earth did the christians roust the moors from there? I mean even by today standards of ground warfare you could lead soldiers with guns up that slope and they wouldnt have a chance against the battlements and murder holes. The slope would not permit you to take up any kind of tower or artillary and from high on the hill you could survive any seige. Arrows, rocks, hot oil would rain down on any potential invader. The only way to get an advantage would be to have artillary on the opposite hill and that explained the reason for the torre bermeja. With the torre Bermeja and a defence wall connecting the two, the alhambra became imposible to attack from the front.

I now had to think about getting down again. I was hoping to walk along the base of the alhambra walls and find an easier exit but the woodland and scrub would not permit me. I came back down the slope again narrowly avoiding a serious fall. I will not be trying that again, the slope is extremely dangerous...but it was still fun to explore.





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_____________________________

Follow my blog http://pimientito.wordpress.com/

"Ceremonial" by Mark Shurey "Pimientito". CD and digital download vailable on Amazon and
CDbaby. http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/markshurey
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Feb. 26 2012 15:37:59
 
Richard Jernigan

Posts: 3430
Joined: Jan. 20 2004
From: Austin, Texas USA

RE: Alhambra Adventures (in reply to Pimientito

quote:

ORIGINAL: Pimientito
How on earth did the christians roust the moors from there?


They didn't. My recollection that Granada fell to a prolonged siege is confirmed by this short article.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Granada

Boabdil surrendered to Los Reyes Católicos after failed attempts to dislodge the siege and after receiving only weak support from the Ottomans--thus the famous story of the Suspiro del Moro.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puerto_del_Suspiro_del_Moro

Thanks again, Pimientito for your fascinating research. I envy your opportunity to see all those wonderful documents, and I eagerly await the results of your investigations.

RNJ
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Feb. 26 2012 21:10:17
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