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RE: Solera specs ???   You are logged in as Guest
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constructordeguitarras

Posts: 1675
Joined: Jan. 29 2012
From: Seattle, Washington, USA

RE: Solera specs ??? (in reply to satvic

I would just like to mention that there is even more to it: An additional factor is that the soundboard will not necessarily retain the same doming you build into it when it is under string tension. Moreover, although some modern builders hollow out the bottom of the bridge and then glue it on using clamps through the soundhole, traditional Spanish builders leave the bridge flat on the bottom and glue it on by clamping down on the wings from the outside of the guitar, which reduces the doming somewhat. So the best advice I've seen here is to build and see what happens and then build more guitars.

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  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Jan. 31 2012 11:56:18
 
El Burdo

 

Posts: 632
Joined: Sep. 8 2011
 

RE: Solera specs ??? (in reply to constructordeguitarras

Hi Ethan

I would have thought a straight piece of rosewood would completely straighten out a piece of spruce, not slightly change it. I think I'll stick with the contoured base for the moment! My earlier flamenco domed somewhat after playing for a while and I just assumed it was 'inexperienced luthier error'.

This all throws the neck angle into confusion now and I think your conclusion can be the only sensible one. But I would hate to waste that wood if it turns out badly.

My problem at the moment is how much cedar is going to bend additionally under string tension, compared to mahogany for example - in order to calculate the appropriate neck angle? 50% of the calculated angle, say 1mm? 100%?

Do you think placing an ebony, say, strengthener down the middle of the neck - I will have spare ebony after cutting the fingerboard to shape - is a useful way of keeping the neck rigid, or will it also have the effect of making the neck straight, as well as rigid, as opposed to a nice curve which seems more acceptable somehow? It will add mass of course, too, but it would at least limit the natural bend.

I did the calculations suggested by Jeff above.

I think if I have a dome of 3mm plus a bridge saddle height of 8mm, a flat neck and a 6mm fingerboard plus 1mm frets, I'll get a 2mm height from the 12th fret, not taking into account natural neck raising due to string tension, or, now, dome raising! Not bad, maybe a bit close.

If the neck comes up naturally by 2mm at the nut end and the tapa by 1mm more, that's maybe another 2mm at the 12th fret, making it 4mm! Makes me want to angle the neck downwards!!

More information, more confusion. I wish I'd never joined. Or made a guitar.

Sorry, so many questions!


  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Jan. 31 2012 12:55:43
 
jshelton5040

Posts: 1500
Joined: Jan. 17 2005
 

RE: Solera specs ??? (in reply to El Burdo

quote:

ORIGINAL: El Burdo

My problem at the moment is how much cedar is going to bend additionally under string tension, compared to mahogany for example - in order to calculate the appropriate neck angle? 50% of the calculated angle, say 1mm? 100%?


Why would you presume Spanish Cedar to be less resistant to bending than Mahogany?

I suggest you ease off on the calculations and decide on some simple numbers like 3mm dome, 2mm deflection. You can always taper the fingerboard to correct deflection errors.

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  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Jan. 31 2012 14:13:41
 
El Burdo

 

Posts: 632
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RE: Solera specs ??? (in reply to jshelton5040

I wasn't - I was wondering. Lots of people with experience here.

I think you're right though, it is getting out of hand.
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Jan. 31 2012 14:18:04
 
jshelton5040

Posts: 1500
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RE: Solera specs ??? (in reply to El Burdo

quote:

ORIGINAL: El Burdo

I wasn't - I was wondering. Lots of people with experience here.



In my opinion after many years of experience there is no better wood than Spanish Cedar for the neck. It tends to be lighter, more stable and easier to carve than Mahogany and it doesn't need as long a cure. I've seen no evidence to persuade me that adding a hardwood strip down the middle is of any benefit. If you want to laminate a neck the best solution is to split the neck plank, flip one side end for end and glue it back together. Unfortunately that tends to make it harder to carve.

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  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Jan. 31 2012 18:07:57
 
Sean

Posts: 672
Joined: Jan. 20 2011
From: Canada

RE: Solera specs ??? (in reply to constructordeguitarras

I set up the neck angle to match the amount of doming used, the bend due to string tension is referred as neck relief. I suggest you do a search to learn the difference and how adding any stiffeners to the neck will effect this.

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  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Jan. 31 2012 19:36:31
 
El Burdo

 

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Joined: Sep. 8 2011
 

RE: Solera specs ??? (in reply to Sean

I didn't know that.

Five minutes ago I thought that I could build a neck angle into the solera, angle the top of the heel to accept the soundboard to the new angle, cut the slots to accept the sides at an angle and deal with what I now understand is neck relief by shaving fingerboards, bridge saddle etc. Now I don't know my name.

(I also thought I would rout a slot up the back for the decorative binding after it was fixed in place.)

So I'm going to buy a book!

Thanks for trying.
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Jan. 31 2012 20:07:43
 
estebanana

Posts: 9351
Joined: Oct. 16 2009
 

RE: Solera specs ??? (in reply to constructordeguitarras

quote:

traditional Spanish builders leave the bridge flat on the bottom and glue it on by clamping down on the wings from the outside of the guitar, which reduces the doming somewhat.


That's not true. Traditional makers scrape or scraped, depending on if they are dead yet, the underside of the bridge to fit the arch.

You see arch fitted bridges on guitars by makers from Torres to Santos to Barba, etc.

---------------------------------------

I agree with John, just built it. But first get yourself a big roll of shelf paper and draw the action an neck angle.

You can answer a lot of questions for yourself if you draw a horizontal line three feet long on a sheet of paper and then tell yourself that is your string.

Then draw a nut where the nut goes and a saddle where the saddle goes.
How high off the top do you want your saddle?
How high do you want the action at the 12th fret?
How high do you want your arch to be?
How far forward do you or do you not have to set your neck in order to arrive at your intended measurements?

The guitar is not a box with strings attached to it. The guitar is a string with a box under it. Design from the string and superimpose your intended box dimensions on the string.

For example, decide you want the arch to be 3mm high and draw the guitar for the side view showing a 3mm arch. Draw the bridge sitting on top of it. Draw the amount you want string height off the top. Draw the string passing over the 12th fret at 3mm high.

What does this tell you about neck angle? If you are confused or unsure? Before you commit to setting the neck angle by gluing on the back, draw it several times until you understand it. Try drawing different arch heights from low to ridiculously high. Sometimes when we "over determine" something we see in high contrast how some thing works or does not work. If you made a drawing of a super high action and then tried to make a neck angle to make that the action work you would get a comical looking and non functional guitar, but it would show you in a dramatic way what is happening and it might be interesting or funny enough to enter your nervous system as a builder. We do really well when we trick ourselves into learning something by being playful. Luthiers are far to dour and uptight. You gotta deal with that ****.


We seem to think that following a set of plans made on a computer CAD program is really clear, but it's not. It is an 'illustration' of what a guitar looks like. A guitar really is a string with a box under it, not a pretty wooden box drawn slickly and impressively by a computer. The old boys like Torres and Manuel Ramirez drew the model with a compass, a T square, and a ruler. They drafted the guitar themselves to understand the arching and action and by pushing the pencil they held in their minds the concept, not an second hand illustration of the concept.

Anyone can build a guitar from a set of plans. But not anyone can draw the guitar from scratch. But when you do the whole architecture of the instrument comes into focus.

A solera is simply the negative image of your hand done drawing of the guitar, only made out of wood. The solera is just an extension of your drawing made manifest in solid form so it can cradle the structure while you create it. Understand the drawing concept of designing the guitar and the solera becomes clear automatically.

I have a student right now who is getting close to finishing his first guitar. I had him draw the whole guitar several times and did not allow him to work from premade drawings. He made most of the basic mistakes on paper and when he got to building the wood the only thing wrong was his lack of experience working with wood. He did pretty well with that considering. His work looks totally Spanish and he gets the concepts which drive the Torres framework for making a guitar.

I even draw things out myself. But drawing it teaches you why things work and it makes your powers of observation of master guitars sharper. You start to see things that they did that are not evident on pre bought plans.

Just saying. Drawing your model inside and out first explains how the solera works and how it should be shaped.

Sorry to be so pedantic.



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  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Jan. 31 2012 21:48:12
 
jshelton5040

Posts: 1500
Joined: Jan. 17 2005
 

RE: Solera specs ??? (in reply to El Burdo

quote:

ORIGINAL: El Burdo

Five minutes ago I thought that I could build a neck angle into the solera, angle the top of the heel to accept the soundboard to the new angle, cut the slots to accept the sides at an angle and deal with what I now understand is neck relief by shaving fingerboards, bridge saddle etc. Now I don't know my name.

Don't get discouraged. Sounds like you have a good understanding; however there are different methods of getting the neck relief. Some people adjust the thickness of the neck to allow a tiny bit of flex for the relief.
quote:


(I also thought I would rout a slot up the back for the decorative binding after it was fixed in place.)


Nothing wrong with this method.

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  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Feb. 1 2012 14:35:45
 
El Burdo

 

Posts: 632
Joined: Sep. 8 2011
 

RE: Solera specs ??? (in reply to jshelton5040

quote:

only made out of wood
Dammit! I've just come back with some mdf for my second solera (Yep, I'm rebuilding that too, 2mm dome I think, my old one was 3.5mm).

Thanks John and Stephen. I've made several drawings since yesterday using the methods described here and am starting to get a feel. I honestly don't remember thinking of measurements at all in my first neo-flamenco (built as a classical after Torres, closing braces, 3.5mm dome etc with mahogany neck and cypress b/s) which is why it looks like a hockey stick (no) but I ended up with an 11mm drop to the tapa from the strings, so my golpe nail is mostly absent or solid superglue. The bridge in my Santos drawing is 10mm but I am going to reduce it to 8mm with my new added confidence. The action is OK but by luck. I think I'm in control again!

And that's great news re the binding - I am going to use the wide strip of rosewood but no bw binding, er... I think. I don't know!!

Cheers everyone.
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Feb. 1 2012 15:47:37
 
estebanana

Posts: 9351
Joined: Oct. 16 2009
 

RE: Solera specs ??? (in reply to El Burdo

quote:

I've just come back with some mdf for my second solera


That will work, it's just not fun to carve. And you have to make sure you brace it up so it can't move.

Just curious, did drawing it out help make the process more clear? I have a pet theory that the physicality of drawing some thing at it's actual size with paper and pencil gives you information and awareness that working on a computer cannot provide. The computer screen keeps the work separated from you physically and it is also reduced in size. I found that a sharp pencil and straight edge are superior for drawing guitars, but I know not everyone holds that opinion.

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  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Feb. 2 2012 0:16:45
 
El Burdo

 

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RE: Solera specs ??? (in reply to estebanana

I think you're absolutely right. The physicality of paper and its direct connection with the development process is better than when the computer's abstractedness intervenes.

I used Mr. Highland's layout technique and your points to consider referred to earlier. Rather than draw the length full scale I limited the horizontal scale to one page of graph paper. The vertical scale can still be 10x actual and the ratios will still be the same. (I also did it full size to check the figures which duplicated the other results).
As you say, I now understand the process of neck angling, which I only sort-of understood before (I hope I do anyway). I concluded that, in each case raising the neck increases the action at the 12th fret, but it also allows you to vary the saddle height to get the distance to the tapa you want.

As far as this new fangled 'relief' thing is concerned, I'm still looking. I might just allow the neck to do its thing and deal with it in the wood, which pretty much most of you are saying. I don't want to get too precious about it! I think I'll go for a 2mm dome, 1mm neck 'angle..thing' and handle the relief as it turns out.

I'll attach a snap of what I did. (Sorry I can't seem to control picture size!)



Images are resized automatically to a maximum width of 800px

Attachment (1)
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Feb. 2 2012 10:00:51
 
Jeff Highland

 

Posts: 401
Joined: Mar. 5 2010
From: Caves Beach Australia

RE: Solera specs ??? (in reply to constructordeguitarras

As far as relief goes, I basically make my theoretical saddle height (in a drawing or in a spreadsheet) 0.5mm higher than I want to allow for the effects of the neck pulling up into a curve from string tension.
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Feb. 2 2012 19:30:24
 
El Burdo

 

Posts: 632
Joined: Sep. 8 2011
 

RE: Solera specs ??? (in reply to Jeff Highland

That seems to have the same effect at the 12th fret as raising the nut by the same amount. I wonder why you are raising the saddle instead. At the moment is seems counter-intuitive as it is the neck that bends up. Perhaps, as you are replying to constructordeguitarras you are considering the dome raising instead, potentially bringing up the saddle by 0.5mm and making your other calculations based on that possibility. To me, it looks like the saddle has to come down by an equivalent amount to bring the action back to its desired figure assuming the neck is bending.

Anyway, I still haven't investigated relief yet, so forgive my comments if they are ignorant, but then I am ignorant. I'll look for a bit more on neck relief.
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Feb. 2 2012 22:29:46
 
Jeff Highland

 

Posts: 401
Joined: Mar. 5 2010
From: Caves Beach Australia

RE: Solera specs ??? (in reply to constructordeguitarras

Yes basically it has the same effect as raising the nut under tension
It is just an allowance to build in one way or another to allow for the curvature under tension
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Feb. 3 2012 3:50:00
 
El Burdo

 

Posts: 632
Joined: Sep. 8 2011
 

RE: Solera specs ??? (in reply to Jeff Highland

I understand. That's helpful. I was expecting more, but then I normally play a 335 where things are different! Cheers.
  REPORT THIS POST AS INAPPROPRIATE |  Date Feb. 3 2012 8:58:23
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